Everything I learned I learned from the movies-Audrey Hepburn
There is this part of me which floats in the scenes of movies, a part of me that always thinks how does a real-life will be if it was like in movies. With background music, slow motion of a leaf touching the ground, happy endings and sometimes sad endings too. And sometimes, I wonder if the movies are real and if we are living an imaginary life.
I was introduced to West Bengal through a movie, a movie called Parineeta(Porineeta as they say). Many years ago, when I was in college and most of my classmates were from West Bengal. Other than marking West Bengal on a map for a question in a unit test during school days, I didn’t know much about the state. There were no blogs then or rather high-speed internet too to quickly google if I would like to know about a place.
I am glad we didn’t though as West Bengal was introduced to me by the people, food and movies. I knew they loved food, even better if the food has fish and potato. I knew they love dressing up. I knew married ladies wear sindhoor in the partition where the hair gets divided to half, I knew they were white sarees with an elongated seragu (pallu), I knew they wear red and white bangles after marriage. I knew they all had someone else hidden in themselves-a poet, a singer, a writer, a dancer, an actor, an artist.
So, when I stepped into Kolkata last month, even though it was the first time physically, in my mind there was a De Ja Vu moment. I knew I have been here already, it was through a movie. Again, there is this part of me that thinks, if movies are made of real-life or real-life is a movie itself.
The background music just plays though saying Piyu bole & I drift away to another world.
Travelling: It leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller-Ibn Battuta
Raindrops are dripping from the concaved mud tiled roof, sky touched palm trees sway along the wind, everyone’s working hard in the fields wearing a unique cap. This is a scene from a Kannada movie called “Nammoora Mandaara Hoove” and this is where I was introduced to Uttara Karnataka for the very first time when I was a kid. The scenes from the movie stamped on my memory and never faded, I had to visit these memories and experience them.
I stayed in a village called Hostota, 36 kilometers away from Sirsi Town at Vihar Home Stay. In a sedate ambiance where silence has its own meaning, paddy fields, and Areca Nut trees encircling the house; in my own solitude, I was embracing the feeling of the stills from the movie that was carved in my brain.
Niranjan Bhat who runs the homestay is an Ayurvedic doctor by profession but he was always passionate towards farming, he left his medical career to pursue his interest in farming. He says he is happier now working on the farm as this is what he grew up with and gives a sense of satisfaction to live the life with trees and birds. The homestay is an alternative income, once in a while I get to meet some interesting people but my priority is towards farming, he says.
He has a great collection of vintage coins and ancient manuscripts made out of palm leaves; he also sculpts Ganesha idol for Ganesha festival in his house, he says it’s a family tradition. His grandfather and father have done this, he is doing it and says his son will carry it forward too.
The food is served to guests exactly the way they eat at home on a banana leaf; the one in the picture here was my first breakfast-Dose, Kai (coconut) Chutney, Chutney Pudi with shengai yenne (peanut oil) and Joni Bella (Liquid Jaggery). Food served to guests here is all vegetarian (Havyaka food as they call it) and vegetables are grown in their organic garden by their house.
I was served chutney made with garlic leaves and cucumber skin, one of the most creative heads with food I have ever met. Nothing goes waste; everything is converted to a splendid dish.
All across Uttara Karnataka, Multi-Crop farming is followed. As the name says, more than one crop is grown in the same field. Areca Nut, Pepper, Cardamom, Cocoa are all grown in the same field; this saves water, land space and also more yield at one go. Although each crop has their own season of harvesting, they work best in terms of preserving resources.
We went for a walk in the twilight to their Areca Nut farm; it was the season for Areca Nut harvesting. The first step is to climb the tree with a rope tied around the waist to hang the Machete and also to pull the other tree to jump on it. Once he is done with one tree, he jumps to another tree. This is the riskiest job in the whole process and there is usually just one person who does this job in about 2-3 villages around. Once the Areca Nut is fallen to the ground, it will be picked up manually and taken for the next process.
After picking up, the orange and green ones are separated. Green ones are peeled as soon as they are plucked, orange ones are sun-dried and then peeled. The Areca nuts are peeled using a specific knife; the outer cover of the nut is removed.
The ladies come from a neighboring village and are paid daily wages along with tea and snacks. They were concerned about me traveling alone and asked me to bring my family the next time, as I took my phone out to take their photo they started to laugh. After a while got comfortable and suggested few places for me to visit around Sirsi.
Peeled Areca Nuts are immediately added to boiling water and is boiled approximately for about 45 minutes. All these steps are completed within 24 hours once the initial process of peeling starts. If there is too much gap after peeling, the quality of the final product goes low. Areca Nuts gets softer once boiled and should be constantly watched and removed at the right time, if not removed at the right time, this can harm the quality too. Once removed, they are dried and sold to market.
The peeled skin of the Areca Nuts are used for mulching around the trees, this helps the soil to hold the moisture and also helps the roots during heavy rains. If not as mulch, they are mixed with cow dung and used as gobar. Yet again, nothing goes waste here!
Niranjan Bhat stirs the boiling pot to make sure the Areca Nuts are boiled at the right temperature and shares the tension about labor not being available off late as they are more attracted towards moving to the city. This has been the same in every village I have visited so far, it continues here too in Sirsi. He tells, how difficult it is to get them to work and how prompt they are with their timings, who would not want to stretch even for a minute if there is some extra work. He mentioned, I guess in few years we will need robots or it’s impossible to carry on with farming.
Most of the houses here have a story weaved in them; Niranjan Bhat’s ancestral house is one of them too. A 200 years old house, it takes 2 people to push the door wide open. The light passes through with high beam and spreads across the house; the strong pillars are holding the roof tighter creating an eternal love story. They moved out from this house as it was difficult to maintain, he took me around the house sharing his childhood memories. I was spellbound looking at the vastness the house offered, the light and fragrance of the wood etch a desire to build a house that shares stories like these.
I lived my childhood dream of visiting Uttara Karnataka in Hostota. I re-lived my dream.
Parties and loud music have never been my favorite thing to do, at least not during New Years. I prefer a quieter one, rather read a book or count stars. When 2017 arrived, I had to avoid invites and hide in a jungle where no one can find me. Instinctive decision told me to go to Sirsi, after a long search I found a place to stay and headed towards my first travel to Uttara Karnataka.
Sirsi
I was introduced to Uttara Karnataka through Kannada movies-misty mountains, tiled roof houses, a unique dialect of Kannada, areca nut trees, mind-boggling caves. These pictures that I had only seen in a movie came live in front of my eyes as the bus window started to cover with white curtains of mist. I stayed in a homestay 40 km away from Sirsi town, welcomed 2017 by counting stars, woke up on January 1st to birds chirping and went around Areca nut farms to know more about Areca Nut processing. Hiked to a waterfall in the morning and watched the sunset by evening, a calm New Year start.
I then moved to another place close to Banavasi, stayed in an eco-friendly cottage, traveled through those caves that I had seen in movies, relished on Havyaka cuisine. I fell in love so much with Sirsi; I was here thrice in 2017.
Scotland of Karnataka as commonly known, I have traveled lengths and breaths to Coorg multiple times even before I turned to a full-time traveler. It is a commercialized tourist joint now, but a friend and I needed a break and we booked a homestay far off from the town. We hiked around a small forest looking for a water stream, enjoyed the food and rested all our worries in that small forest.
Highlights: Hike to the water stream.
Nepal
The first stamp on my new passport had to be from somewhere new, somewhere I had no expectations from, somewhere I had not really had any dreams set to. All of this was fulfilled when I planned my travels with my father to Nepal, it started dramatically with the flight cancelation. More than 24 hours delay and we were in Nepal, we stepped into this land without any expectations. The warmth of the people warmed our heart, the architecture of the palaces is incredibly beautiful, the stone carvings on the walls are breathtaking, scenic surroundings with river and paddy fields and the food at any corner of Nepal is to die for.
Highlights: People, food, and architecture.
Bhutan
One of the happiest countries in the world, this little paradise has to be on everyone’s list to visit. With their beautiful landscapes covering about 80% of forest, the happiness lies everywhere-in the air, in the leaves, in the river. Pine trees and rivers followed us everywhere, prayer flags swayed with the wind worshipping for prosperity. This country is surely one of the greatest gifts we have.
Highlights: Scenic landscapes, organic food.
Gokarna
Gokarna is one of those places that I can call home, for all those beautiful memories I have spent here; I decided to take my friend who had come to visit me for my birthday. I have always stayed at Om beach, this time I decided to change and enjoy the waves of Kudle beach. We stayed in a place with the view of the beach, few steps hike and there was a private view of the beach. The viewpoints are usually crowded but this one was just for the waves, sun and us. We enjoyed sipping the beer, reading the book and saying goodbye to the sun.
I visited Gokarna twice this year, the second time I did not miss to spend time at my home-Om Beach.
Highlights: Sunset viewpoint.
Dandeli
Whoever is familiar with the word Dandeli, the first thing comes to their mind is rafting. And for me, it’s a different story, we took a bus from Gokarna to Dandeli; the drive through the tiger reserve and the paddy fields was something that I was not aware of in Dandeli. The step paddy field reminded me of the very famous Ubud paddy fields, Dandeli can surely give a tough competition to Ubud. We stayed in a homestay closer to a small town called Joida, amidst the paddy fields and flowering plants that our host had planted for butterflies. My birthday travels for this year, did really end colorfully.
Highlights: Scenic paddy fields, lush green forest, and food.
Kerala
Kerala always happens with a calling from the heart, something that kept me pushing to go to Kerala after my birthday travels. Last year, I had found out about an NGO called Kabani who are working towards Sustainable tourism; I couldn’t go then so decided to go now. Packed my bags and left for Kozhikode in the last week of October to volunteer with Kabani, traveled with Kabani to a village in Wayanad and learned the history of Kozhikode. Stayed for 44 days and all I can talk about is food, this is exactly the calling from the heart and that’s only because of food; food and my heart sync well and that’s where all the calling begins.
Highlights: Offbeat travel with sustainable practices, food.
2016 started with full zoom as I knew it is going to be one of my biggest years so far. I had decided to leave my job by then & was very excited to write my resignation email. The excitement was also towards my footsteps on getting into full time traveling & writing. Just like luck can have it, I started my travels in January on Western Ghats-my home.
Nested deep in the rain forest, Hulivana is situated on the lap of mountains. Roller coaster Jeep ride through the forest, trek on all the mountains around, view of thick forest, eco-friendly environment, learning about birds & insects, friendly host & not to forget the yummy food. Everything together constitutes this place to be one of its kinds.
Highlights: Only place located in the forest, eco-friendly environment.
Chikmagalur is always about coffee, that’s not true is what I realized during this visit to Chikmagalur & my stay in Megur Homestay. Situated around acres of tea plantations, coffee surrounded by it, view of Kudremukha/Kemmanagundi, stay in ancestral property which was owned by the locals of Malnad region. Not to forget to mention, of course a visit to Chikmagalur was mandatory when the year starts J
Highlights: Located on acres of tea plantations, local food.
A Garden full of Bird of Paradise flowers, Cauvery River passing by, beautifully built tree house, paddy fields view from the window, birds knocking on the door of the tree house, an old house with red oxide & stories to tell, local food. Bird of Paradise named after the flower, located in Coorg; is a place to get a break from city’s hustle & bustle & spot lots of birds while you are watching bird of paradise flowers.
Highlights: Tree House, Local Food.
Sri Lanka
Realization to achieve my dreams happened during my visit to Sri Lanka in 2015 & to commemorate this I decided to go to Sri Lanka for a longer time-a month. I traveled around the Galle Fort to mountains in Deniyaya & Haputale, misty village Mandaram Nuwara to a 400 years old village called Meemure, from a busy town Kandy to a sandy beach in Mirissa. Sri Lanka is one of those places that remain closer to heart, always!
Highlights: First trip for a long duration after quitting the job, visiting 400 years old village.
Sadhana Forest
Volunteering is one of the ways to travel if you are on a low budget, but this concept seemed nicer when you are volunteering to an organization that is giving back everything they do to nature. Sadhana Forest is the first place I volunteered in for 10 days, 70 acres of dry land is converted to a dry evergreen forest which is now home for many animals & birds. There is no one person I haven’t mentioned about Sadhana Forest, it is an experience to stay & volunteer in there. Everyone should visit this place at least once or more 🙂
Highlights: First time volunteering, Vegan environment.
Pondicherry
Our little own France is Pondicherry, stayed in an ancient house in Pondicherry & slow traveled the 3 days wandering around the cobbled streets, watching people cycling like old times, Vespa scooters adding some color on the road, bougainvillea flowers lit up on the streets, colorful row houses, shopping on the streets.
Highlights: French Colony, colorful houses, beach
Karuna Farm in Kodaikanal
While I was looking for a place to stay in Kodaikanal, I happened to stumble upon Karuna Farm & was happy to know that there was a job opening. I was super excited that I could work here & enjoy the freedom of being with mountains; I worked here for 2 months & 8 days watching the same mountains every day that looked different each & every moment when I looked at them.
Highlights: Eco-friendly environment, Community living.
Maharashtra
Stayed in Mumbai for a while to catch up with few friends & then headed towards Matheran as I heard so many good things about this place. Matheran is the only eco-friendly hill station in Asia; commute is only by horse or by walk. Words wouldn’t give justice to describe Matheran, everywhere you look you can see lush green mountains & waterfalls running through.
Panchgani, another hill station around the Western Ghats is another beautiful sight where it has table land & Asia’s second largest plateau.
Highlights: Western Ghats tour, an Eco-friendly hill station.
Hyderabad
Hyderabad was my dream place to visit since the day I saw a scene in a Telugu movie. Finally, I could visit as a friend was getting married; it is pretty much like any other city but carries a very nice vibe. The food was mind blowing; I sipped coffee at Minerva, glittered in the colorful streets of Char Minar & loitered in Golconda Fort.
The principles of true art is not to portray, but to evoke – Jerzy Kosinski
Dating back to thousands of years, India holds rich heritage in many art forms. One of them is Dhokra, which is being practiced for more than 4,000 years originated in West Bengal and now is practiced in most of the regions in India.
As much as most of our art forms are still practiced but hasn’t been recognized & rewarded as they deserve to be, they are slowly becoming extinct. Dhokra which is also widely practiced in Gadchiroli faced a major threat of naxalites that affected the adivasi craftsmen’s work to pursue it effectively.
Under an old Ficus tree an idea was seeded in 2008, which has now grown up to be Devrai Art Village an NGO in Panchgani that has created a platform for these craftsmen by nurturing their art work. Ms. Mandakini Mathur, founder of Devrai Art Village partnered with Mr. Suresh Pangati who is a craftsman by himself forming a creative set of team of adivasi craftsmen from Gadchiroli & Chhattisgarh.
Panchgani in Satara District in Maharashtra which is located on the Sahyadri mountain ranges is very well known for table land which is also the second longest mountain plateau in Asia and their strawberry farms. Stunning views of small hamlets in the alley, lush green paddy fields, Karvi flowers just starting to bloom and the still green mountains surrounding the whole town adds like glitters to the beauty of Panchgani.
Speaking about Dhokra, it is an art form that uses lost wax casting where a metal (Brass, Silver, Gold, etc) sculpture is formed using a mould which either can be made of wax or clay. I spent most of my time in Devrai by interacting with artists watching them manoeuvre their hands to form beautiful sculptures under the old Ficus tree.
Once in 15/20 days casting process takes place and I was lucky to see this as it was in progress on the day I reached. Shankar Nag, one of the artists explains how casting takes place. Every sculpture is shielded by mud that forms a mould and heated up for about 3-4 hours, at the same time brass is boiled for about 3-4 hours. Once the mould is heated, brass is poured and allowed to cool for a while before it’s broken & taken to the next process. As the process in itself was such a beauty to watch, I was also drawn to just stare at the fire & the boiling brass.
Once the mould is broken, the next step involves cleaning & providing the final touch.The sculpture is heated again to dip in Potassium Permanganate & the last step is Buffing! Entire process would at least take about 2 weeks to get the final product.
Rock Dhokra is a new feather added to the traditional Dhokra art, one of its kinds which were invented at Devrai. I spent some time with Suresh to understand the process of Rock Dhokra. Stones are picked by the river, based on the shape of the stone artists decide on what sculpture can be formed. Artists design the shape around the stone using bee wax; it is then moulded with mud (brought from Gadchiroli) and heated. Suresh says, there were many challenges when they started Rock Dhokra as the brass needs to be heated at the right temperature. A slight variation in the temperature can also cause damage to the sculpture which adds to more work on the next process.
This piece was made using a wooden bark!
Devrai Art Village also offers workshops for who is interested in learning the art form, internships for the art & design students, they also have apprentice from the adivasi community who learn the art form to make their living.
Let Devrai grow as mighty as a tree along with many other art forming branches leading to fruitful artists! If you would like to buy their art or contribute to Devrai please visit their Facebook page or check out their website.
Devrai Art Gallery!
2 years ago Mathur’s family extended their house with an intention to form a likeminded community by hosting creative set of people like artists, writers, designers, etc. Different species of trees, ponds filled with lilies, birds singing all day, beautifully built house with the view of valley, gallery displaying their art work, super friendly dogs & a warm family with creative minds makes your visit more peaceful & comfortable. If you would like to stay at Devrai, you can find them at Airbnb.
That was my view, reading & writing spot for 2 days at Devrai Art Village.
If you are in Panchgani in September, make sure to be part of Karvi Festival which is an Art festival in harmony with Music & Nature. They have live bands performing in a cave & nature trails organized witnessing Karvi flowers that bloom once in 8 years.
We don’t remember days, we remember moments. –Cesare Pavese
I started 2015 in Mangalore lying on the terrace, watching the sky lit up with crackers, thoughts running through my head of few things that never worked as it was supposed to, still with a strong head I decided at that moment that I would be traveling to some place every month this year.
Chikmagalur, most of my friends call it as my second home and also my first love that stands closer to me in many ways, this is the place where I went on my first solo trip. Love towards this place is so much; I have been here thrice in 2015. Why do I go here so often? I have no answer, which is why I call this place as my love. Mountains and greenery all around is such a treat that all the senses wake up to experience this beauty.
Highlights: First Solo Trip & a stay in tree house, Bumpy Jeep ride through Bhadra Forest, Jagara Waterfalls
I was experimenting with my travel type, I have never liked too crowded places; tourists spots is a no unless there is something exceptionally interesting. While I was thinking where to go next, one of my cousins had shared an article about this place Valparai. This place appeared like exactly the kind of place I was looking for, not commercialized yet and most importantly not so touristy either. I did a research, immediately packed my bags and left to explore this hidden treasure alone. Hanging out with the hosts, listening to the leopard spotting stories, midnight drive through the Ghats still hits a chill through my spine.
Highlights: Not commercialized, best Black Tea in the tea factory, beautiful bus ride through the Ghats
Just over a random conversation with a friend of mine is how I decided to go to Sri Lanka, had I not gone on this trip I would have had a biggest regret of my life. This place has it all, from beaches to forest, waterfalls to lakes in every village, hill station to a calm city. I was all in love with this place since the first step I took after the flight landed; I knew that there is something that will be changed in me for good. Such nice and warm people here, who are always smiling and greeting you with joy which makes you, stay here for longer.
Highlights: So much greenery & so peaceful, Great Hospitality, Clean & Beautiful
There is no such joy to be a traveler in your very own city, thanks to my friend who dropped by. There were many places which I hardly knew that existed here in Bangalore/Bengaluru. I was brought up here and I still remember seeing so many trees, awesome weather, so less traffic and now everything seems changing with only apartments, not so good weather and so much traffic where life decisions can be made.
Highlights: My own city so everything here is nice, super friendly people, yummy food
I visited Kerala twice in 2015, Alleppey & Kochi with a friend in September, and Solo Trip to Calicut and caught up with few friends in Wayanad. In Alleppey, Time just feels still; palm trees bowing at the back waters, house boat ride on those still waters just feels like even the time holds still to watch this beauty. There was nothing much I explored in Kochi due to time constraint, but Lulu mall was just an experience to see an amusement park inside the mall.
Like every time, traveling solo to any new place still is a bit scary; Calicut seemed scary too initially but I was totally lost with the places I tried to explore. Although, like I mentioned I do not like too crowded places or tourist places but what more a city can offer; however Calicut was always on my list as this is where Vasco Da Gama landed when he discovered the route to India through Ocean. Since the day I studied in school about him, I always had this wish to see this place. With so much excitement to have finally seen this place, I went towards the greener side of Kerala: Wayanad. Stayed in a place amidst coffee plantations, which was new to me as I always thought Wayanad had only tea.
Highlights: Beautiful Backwaters, city where Vasco Da Gama landed, Lush green everywhere
There are always flowers for those who want to see them.-Henri Matisse
I took 15 days off from work before I officially resign, to work on my travel plans, to withdraw my insurance amount but I couldn’t stay for more than a day in a 4 sided wall! It is just a craving to be free from the monotonous schedule, got me into this: trekking in the forest in Sakleshpur, aroma of tea on one side & tasting coffee on the other in Chikmagalur and then here relishing the aroma of coffee flowers in Bird of Paradise, Coorg! Mr. Shivaprasad who owns this place purchased this land few years ago; being a florist and his love towards flowers made him to name this place after a flower. This flower looks a like species of Bird called “Bird of Paradise” and there goes the history behind the name.
This flower bloomed in the backyard of this small village called Kudumangalore in Kushalanagar and at the bank of Cauvery River. After 4 days of continuous traveling I needed a place to rejuvenate and this place had it all, from a river to a swimming pool & from an 80 years old cottage to a tree house. As I walk into this place it appeared like I was into a nature’s movie: birds chirping all around as the background music, hills as a backdrop, sun painting the sky as a colorful set, clouds forming patterns as artists.
Traditional meal: Akki Rotti & Pandi Curry for Dinner, Neer Dose with Honey, Chutney and Kadubu for Breakfast.
First things first, food here was so delicious I would save some and eat every few hours. Hospitality at its best, they were so kind to prepare whatever I asked for. I was so pampered as much as I would be pampered at home.
Tree houses are my weakness; I get pulled towards it in a jiffy. Mostly because they are always eco-friendly and it is so much of a unique experience to live with birds & squirrels. By far the biggest tree house I stayed in, Squirrels would squeak around to remind me that they live on the same tree too. I sit on the balcony in the tree house watching the sun behind clouds playing peekaboo, squirrels cuddling, pigeons hunting for food in paddy fields, cows moo at a distance.
Cauvery River flowing calmly with trees on both the sides, I stand here observing the silence of the water and my depth of Solitude amidst nature was only getting deeper and stronger. There was silence and so was peace, Solitude seemed so much like bliss! Water was flowing so freely not knowing where the destination is, I kept wondering is this the freedom I have been looking for too?
With the pinch of freedom that has already bit me for now, and with a little grin on my face; I went to chill in the pool that overlooked a big stretch of Bird of Paradise flowers, I lift my head and see flock of birds chirping & flying around, clouds forming unique patterns: I started naming each of them on the way they appeared: Octopus, Sea Horse. There was an eagle flying at a distance, Octopus was slowly sliding through while my good old friend Moon came to say hi!
My first time to see Coffee Flowers, they smell so delicious that just the aroma filled the craving I have for coffee. Honeybees were feeding themselves on these flowers by eating the nectar; those flowers were feeding my senses by spreading the aroma. Right opposite to these coffee plantations are the 80 years old bungalow and cottages, while the bungalow has been modernized a little, the cottages still holds the old charm.
Like I always mention my love towards old & antique pieces; this cottage appeared like a place where I just had to be. Red oxide seat outs in the portico, brick flooring, and tiled roofing; sure if they could speak I would have stayed here for days listening to the stories.
Guests by the cottage.I again went by the river to read my favorite book dipping my feet in the water as fish swam to nibble my feet.
Took an evening walk in the village as sun sets behind the hill, ladies sitting by the door sharing gossips, kids completing their homework in the courtyard, firewood transferred on bullock cart, temple lit up for the evening prayers! All these are definitely not new to me, as most of my holidays as a kid was spent in my village. But everything still seemed new and fresh, place was new, people were new, experience was new. This is what traveling solo feels like; even if there is something old it still feels new and this is why I chose this life of being on the road.
*I was hosted by Bird of Paradise, seemed like I had also packed “luck” along in my backpack!
Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.-Gary Snyder
The house at a distance is the Homestay I stayed in.
Every time I am in Chikmagalur, it has always taken me to surprise! There is a charm about this place that keeps pulling me towards it, and yet again the charm is only getting brighter with more glitters-credit goes to the place I stayed in. Megur Homestay is located around Kelagur Tea & Coffee plantations, one of the rarest views to see both tea and coffee plantations together & that holds the main reason why I chose to stay here. It is not just coffee in Chikmagalur, tea & some conversations happen too!
Pepper & Oranges in the backyard of the Homestay around coffee plantations
Mr. Sudhakara Gowda owns Megur Homestay, an agriculturist, one of the oldest and proud natives of Chikmagalur. The zeal he has when he explains every detail on the places excites anyone to sit & listen to him. We were having conversations on how coffee was first brought to Chikmagalur or rather India itself, I only knew that Baba Budan bought the coffee beans while coming from Haj; who was also the first to introduce coffee in India. Later it was British who got the beans from Africa & few other countries to India, something else which I didn’t know was Cardamom & Pepper is native of Western Ghats too.
Woke up to the smell of tea from the closest tea factory, sipping coffee overlooking the mountains; my brain was wondering whether to enjoy the signal from my taste buds or the nose! We then took a morning walk around Tea plantations, mist was just clearing off and showing us the way, my eyes turned green seeing acres of tea leaves, mountains at a distance, coffee plantations peeping on the side. My host was sharing the pain of finding the labor lately as most of the local crowd move to cities for jobs & easy money. However they have also been seeing lot of migrants from Bihar, Orissa & few other parts from North who come here looking for jobs.
Well the two World’s most favorite drinks are Coffee & Tea; I was still very surprised to see both the plantations right opposite to each other. The dense landscape on the right corner are the coffee plantations, those are the trees grown around the plantations as coffee needs more shade. During rainy season the shade will be minimized by cutting the branch of the trees for the rain water to enter the plantations. On the other hand tea needs more sunlight and hence less trees around them, even if there are trees it would be trees like silver oak that’s seen in the picture which doesn’t give too much of shade for the plantations. Due to less rainfall, lately sprinklers are used in the tea plantations. I will remember this every time I sip coffee/tea hereafter.
With food everything is my favorite and Akki Rotti stands at the top, authentic Malanad food. Yet again, every meal I had here was very delicious along with the Fresh Orange Juice from the backyard 😉
Gadaayi Kallu is on the left corner, the one in the front is Kudremukh.
15 Kms drive from the Homestay is Rani Jari: A tale that happened 250 years ago when Ballalarayana Durga was invaded, it is said that Rani (Queen) was trying to escape & jumped off this cliff, hence the name Rani Jari. Rani Jari has the view of a hamlet in South Canara; it was amazing to see those hamlets with paddy fields & rubber plantations standing at a point of Chikmagalur district to Mangalore District. Hill on the left is Ballalarayana Durga, ruins of the fort still exists on top of this hill.
There is an ancient temple of Kala Bairava Swamy temple built by Balalla Raya. This temple is completely built only by stones & also some amazing carvings on those stones. While we were driving to Rani Jari we saw muster of peacocks, unfortunately couldn’t capture a picture then. We stopped over at a small waterfall amidst tea plantations, where again muster of these beautiful creatures were chilling by the water.
I love not man the less, but Nature more-Lord Byron
I saw this rugged jeep parked in the side, acting cranky to start. I was walking around checking out the mountains, glancing at the jeep every now & then. He was whispering something to me, I went closer & he said. Take a deep breath, sit up straight, and open up all your senses as you may not be able to do this when I take you for a ride. It was a 10 Kms off road drive through the forest on the rocks, passing the trees, mountains all around. Sunil parked the jeep at one corner and said the white dot up there, which is where we are going to. Right there, at that moment I was just telling to myself, days of research poured in finding a place like this was just more than the worth of my time.
Sunil hails from Bangalore/Bengaluru who found this property few years ago in Sakleshpur after a continuous research & traveling all across south India looking for a place like this. He is a certified River Rafter, Scuba Diver, Sky diver and what not; who has traveled to many places across the world and has immense knowledge of birds, trees and animals. 80 years ago, this place was always spotted by herd of tigers and hence the villagers named it Hulibana (Huli is Tiger and Bana is to meet); Sunil didn’t want the history to be changed and retained the same name; in the interest of travelers to understand it better he named it Hulivana.
Villas here are built by the rocks found in forest, mostly by the water stream. Sunil was explaining on how difficult it was to construct the villas by carving the stone to the right shape and have them fit in the right place. Room in the Villa opens up to two French windows on the side and in the front with the view of trees & water stream, wooden flooring and also a fire place inside. Wash room is one of its kinds with pebble flooring & electricity here is generated with hydro turbine during monsoon when there is more current in the water.
Dining hall overlooking the mountains, a place to also have some coffee & conversations.Heaven for foodies with different varieties of food in every meal I ate, was also served with traditional Malanad Kadubu with chutney and beautifully presented water melon.
Hammocks to read or to take a nap or to gaze at the trees or to just listen to water stream, just on the perfect place.
I had this quest to get into a forest alone, never thought I would have it conquered this soon; all thanks to Hulivana setup here. We took a short walk towards a water stream close by, Sunil mentioned about civet cats & I was all excited to see them. I stayed here alone for some time, finally spotted a civet cat for the first time in India (shy animal I must say, as soon as the cat spotted me; he ran away) I had the place to all myself, to sit, to meditate, to think, to dance, to sleep. Although there was fear of elephants passing by, I was just watching these unique creatures: Water Striders who walk on water continuously creating ripples in water.
Later in the evening, we went for a short trek around Ettina Bhuja (Back bone of a bull as the shape of the hill looks like it), I saw an olive green colored scorpion, and excited again as he was my first visitor too. Mesmerized by the view of 360 degrees of mountains everywhere which was topped with thick dense Kabinala forest, the slopes looked like slides connecting from one to other; I just wish I had the power to slide over from one mountain to other one. We sat down discussing the crazy elephant chase stories that has happened around these places and then spotted this bird called “Shikara” which would hover in one place against the wind for few seconds and then keep flying, hover and fly.
Breeze was churning up my bones, somewhere deep in the forest I could hear water rushing through, Sun was getting prepared to slide through those mountains, it was amazing to see the mix of color change on the sky & the hill top. We headed back where fire flies were throwing the light all around and moon was pouring the light from the top. Coffee & Popcorn was waiting for me in a moon lit sky, I have to mention about the hospitality here. Everything was very well organized; from the day email hit my inbox on the confirmation of availability to me reaching my next destination safely.
Bonfire setup!
Over coffee, Sunil was talking about this drink prepared by locals using Jaggery & a seasonal fruit; I just couldn’t deny tasting it. Later in the night by the bonfire, I took the first sip and I knew this would give some buzz around; we started sharing our travel stories. Sunil shared about his stories from seeing dead bodies floating in Rishikesh to his adventurous trek in Himalayas. With the little buzz in my head, all these stories were circulating around me virtually!
Early morning view through the window!
Woke up with the noise of water stream passing by the room which felt like a virtual massage running through my veins from head to toe, chill breeze sliding through the window which made me snuggle under the blanket gazing at those French windows looking at the trees.
Headed for a trek to Deepada Kallu (Deepa is lamp & Kallu is Stone: as the hill looks like a lamp) and Jenukallu gudda (Jenu is honey, kallu is stone & gudda is hill), seemed like there was a thunder storm coming up and the first step I took, there was a drop on my forehead. Every step I take I had to photograph every corner of this place, sun just didn’t want to come out and was playing around with the clouds and the hills. Looked like an ocean of endless mountains, bed of thick forest on them, I just wanted to float on that bed and snuggle under the rug of those clouds.
Clouds were on a war to pour rain,
I did feel a drop on my brain.
I looked at them & said, not today; pretty please?
They were too nice to me & got into peace.
Instead sun was peeping out shedding the ray,
it was such a memorable day.
Cold war seems to be over in blink of an eye,
People ask me why I travel, and this is why!
These are “Shola”, patches of trees that grow amidst the valleys surrounded by grasslands; they are found in only few specific areas in Western Ghats & nowhere else in the world! When it rains water accumulates in the valley which leads to the growth of these trees, these trees hold the moisture & remains green all through the year!
We then trekked upto Jenukallu gudda which is at the height of 4500 feet, first steeped mountain I have climbed on. Fear of heights to turn back, slippery stones, and grass to hold on which can even come out if you held it harder. Totally worth the entire struggle to be on top to see the view of cone shaped mountains, clouds covering them, sunlight spraying the sprinklers; 2 eyes were just not enough to enjoy this beauty & neither these words are enough to describe them.
Sipping a cup of coffee watching the hills around and the thickest of forest, my lungs were all cleansed with the fresh air that got in. I have said this before in my earlier post on Chikmagalur & will say it again, whenever I come to Western Ghats, I feel there is still lots of hope for nature to remain the way it is and this is what pulls me to come to this place again & again & again.
Deep in a rain forest they say, even deeper into the soul of a forest I would say!
Add this to your list of the place that you need to see before you die, you wouldn’t regret! Trust me.
Some facts about Animals & Insects Sunil shared:
Elephants: Post monsoon elephants go through some hormonal changes which lead to pressure in their brain that gets them disturbed to attack human beings. Mostly seen on male elephants but are common on female as well.
Fireflies: There are many kinds of fire flies which can be distinguished by the pattern of the way they shed the light. Say there were 2 kinds of fire flies with Bigger & Smaller patterns: Bigger one changes themselves to a smaller one and goes near smaller like mating and eats them as prey. Smaller one change themselves to bigger one, goes closer near bigger one & mate. Confused? Read again, Confused again? Keep reading. I had to ask 2 times to understand the process 😉
Cicadas: These insects that make noise in the night, gets all together of more than 100 which almost sounds like somebody is screaming, the noise is so loud they have a membrane in their ear that covers automatically. God’s a little too partial to them, isn’t it 😉
Honey Bee: Since honey bees sting is barbed, when the bee stings a mammal & pulled out it tears its abdomen & causes immediate death.
Water Strider: These unique creatures that walk on water gets attracted to ripples formed on water, when an insect falls and creates a ripple that is when these striders hunt them & eat.
When a Wild Flower spotted another Wild Flower.
*I was hosted by Hulivana; luck was all on my plate!
I am not afraid of the darkness. Real death is preferable to a life without living.- Vasco Da Gama
Vasco Da Gama was the first to discover the route to India through ocean landing in Calicut on 20th May 1498. This was the line I remember studying in school and the only thing I knew about Calicut, while I was talking to my colleague about going to Calicut he mentioned about Vasco Da Gama. I instantly went back to my school days, history was one of the subjects that I never liked much, but I still remember studying about Vasco Da Gama and I was all excited to know more about him. I have admired him and would wonder the struggle he had to go through to find the route through ocean back in 1498.
Although traveling to any city doesn’t excite me much, I had to land here for one my friend’s engagement. Finally with plenty of research, found about this village called Elathur which is about 10 Kms from Calicut. There is a canal that runs through this village; I spoke to few locals there who live on the income that comes from fishing.
About 5 Kms from here is the Kappad beach where Vasco Da Gama landed, there is an ancient temple which is supposed to be older before Vasco Da Gama landed here. As per the locals, it is 800 years old, I was standing here and gazing at the beach. I then closely observed that there is a heart-shaped formation on the sand. Was the nature telling me that they love me too?
For my next long travel, I have been thinking to travel only through the ocean. Never had I thought, Vasco Da Gama would be another inspiration. If he could do it 600 years ago why can’t I do it now? This is what travel teaches you, you would never know where and whose story would inspire you to keep going, keep achieving, and keep inspiring.
I had read somewhere that there is a monument showcasing Vasco Da Gama’s discovery, I should admit that I was a little disappointed with this monument which almost went unseen even after passing twice on the same road unless someone pointed to me that was the monument. If you are excited and curious to know about this monument too, don’t be. Here it is!
A little disappointment, more inspiration, more excitement; with all the mixed feelings in the brain I headed towards Beypore Fort, another beach closer to the city has two piers built till the middle of the ocean. The two old piers opening arms till mid of the ocean, waves coming over with the rush to hug them, the sun getting a little jealous watching their romance! I need not say more, no wonder Beypore Fort is one of the romantic getaways!
Sun had already set by the time I reached there and had left the traces in the sky that he was there and had just left. There were too many people around me and I was still all alone connecting to the waves, sensing the vibration in my nerves, eyes opening up widely to gaze at the brightly lit sky. I guess that’s the difference between nature and people, nature would always connect with you: however you are, wherever you are, whatever you are.
After such relishing meal filling my eyes with beach and sunset, I had to close it with a dessert and went to the SM Street to taste the very famous Kozhikode Halwa available in different colors/flavors.
Yours Consciously Sneha 