Tag: history

  • Experiencing the richness of life in Meemure

    Experiencing the richness of life in Meemure

    My richness is life, forever – Bob Marley

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    A road that has seen more animals than vehicles, the fragrance of freshly brewed tea brushes my face, a river gushing deep in the woods is so clear like its right next to me, drizzles play hide & seek with sun rays, butterflies are hovering around, there is a creaky noise and the vehicle stops. It was not a dream, I was in a place where dreams got its life, I was in a place where breeze got its wings, and I was in a place where drizzles got its rhythm. I take a deep breath, open my eyes & ears wide open; the driver says, it’s a tea break. I stepped out smelling petrichor and turned to a beautiful view surrounded by wildflowers, I ordered a Tea or Te as they call it and Vade.

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    Everyone in the van was excited to know I am from India, I spoke to them in Tamil so the kids assumed that I am good friends with Tamil Cinema (Kolywood) actors. They started to pass on their message which they requested me to share with their heroes. They shared their favorite movies, had a little fight amongst themselves supporting their own hero, invited me to their homes, insisted that I should never forget them and made sure that I will pass on their message to their heroes.

    Also, read People of Sri Lanka

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    Sri Lanka and India are very closely knit as we connect in the stories of Ramayana, when I was at Rumasalla I was told Sita was kept here after Ravana kidnapped her. In the van I met a teacher who showed me the cone-shaped mountain called Lakegala, telling that Ravana designed his airplane on that mountain and flew from there many times to India and one of the times was to kidnap Sita. It is said that he chose that mountain due to its shape which was easier for the plane to take off.

    Also, read Sacred Hill in Ramayana

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    It was 5 in the evening when I entered my host’s house where I was welcomed with pepper creepers and areca nut; I sat in the verandah watching a leech slowly moving and there comes the man in his tuk-tuk. A long grey beard, thick mustache that he maneuvered as he approached me; we greeted with Namaste, he said let’s go for a walk in the village. I was exhausted and asked if we can go tomorrow, he said why tomorrow, let’s go now. I grinned and we started walking on the thick concrete road along the roof tiled evenly built houses, I was introduced to everyone whom we met on the way as India, and they asked if I have come alone. He says yes, he smiles, I smile, they smile and we move on.

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    This tree is 400 years old, as old as the village he said; also considered as a sacred tree of the village. The villagers gather here for a chit-chat or for any discussions related to the village. Thinking of the number of stories and gossips this tree must have stored in his trunk, I sat under its shade listening to the eerie air that passed by each leaf of paddy. I asked him how many families live here and he said about 120 families with around 600 people. With the rich paddy fields everywhere, it was very evident that paddy is their major source of income but they also have additional crops like beans and pepper. They also generate income from Kitul Honey, honey extracted from a palm tree called Kitul and from Jaggery; some of them generate income through tuk-tuk as well. For the past few years, this village has fallen in the eyes of travelers which are turning out to be a good source of income too.

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    Mr. Navaratna, 52 years young man, my host proudly says he is the only man who can speak English in the village, in the year 2000 he started to host travelers in his house. His house is a mini-museum with some unique wooden handicrafts and the traditional tools used for farming and cooking; all displayed in his verandah. The food, my favorite episode of this life where I get alive again came to me on the dining table; this was the best Sri Lankan food my taste buds have relished. The spices were glowing in the food; the result of organic farming showed up in every bite I savored.

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    After our dinner, few boys from the village joined us who shared some of their adventurous stories around the village. They were talking about the hikes and group of people who come to hike on Lakegala, there are also many trails they have discovered through Meemure that connects to another side of Lakegala which lasts for few days. Just a thought of it gets me Goosebumps; that’s how dense and beautiful the forest is. I dropped off my excitement to do this the next time and started to savor the freshly brewed coconut arrack.

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    A new day begun, I came out of my room to see him sharpening his machete, why do we need this, I asked. We are entering a forest, this is for our safety. I took a gulp of my saliva, rubbed my palms with fear and followed him into the forest. Do you have such forest in India? I said yeah, we do have such forests. Do you have anything like Meemure? Ah, well India is too big and yes we do have such beautiful and remote villages in India too I said. We laughed, it echoed and then a perfect silence. Echoes continued for a while and he stopped to pick up some plastic covers, look how tourism is slowly spoiling the nature. I always tell my travelers not to litter anywhere but there are few locals who come to spoil the place, whined for a while and moved with our echoes again.

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    We stopped by a waterfall, he says let’s rest here for a bit; I lie down on the rock staring at the sky, thanking the universe for letting me see this wonderful gift given by nature itself. Ah, then there comes my friends’ leeches to play around on my feet, I panicked for a bit initially and then started to ignore and initiated conversations with the trees.

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    After a while, we stopped at another waterfall, I will have to say; it was straight out of a magical land. I felt like I was in one of those fairytale books where I could smell the fragrance of flowers, butterflies all around me fluttering around, water ripples formed by the waterfall was so inviting to take a dip. I turned around and saw Navaratna Aiyya in a deep sleep; I was in my sleep too with my eyes open. He woke up and says; it’s so peaceful here; I always fall asleep as soon as I reach this place. He also told me that this fall was named after him as he discovered it, but there were few other people who claimed that’s not true.  What’s there in a name? I chose to just leave it as is and call it as my “Fairytale dream”.

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    Our excited Navaratna Aiyya took me to another waterfall where he made me slide and jump, although I am water phobic; he insisted that I get rid of my fears and I did. As we walked back, I saw one of the most amazing sunsets behind the Lakegala Mountain. The colors the sun had left been reflecting on the paddy fields like a mirror, the houses were lit up and I saw farmers still working in the field. We also met a blind man who was working on the road, I was so inspired by his dedication; no one in this village sits idle. If they are idle, that’s only to have a laugh together over a drink.

    I was told earlier about zero network coverage in Meemure, except for few landlines in the house. They have electricity that is generated by hydroelectric power only in the night funded by United Nations. There is only one van that operates once a day to and fro from the nearby town called Hunnasgiriya, it’s a 15+1 seater van and about 50 people manage to sit, stand, sit on others lap, hang on the door! Oh, it’s not just people, even their crops are sent by only this van to the town market! Police have never stepped in the village; if there are any problems they solve by themselves. There is one post office that operates from this village and one school that teaches until 5th grade, they need to go to the nearby village to study till 10th and then to town to continue further.

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    I had to pinch myself many times to know if this is a reality; it is hard to believe that a life like this exists.  I was wrapped in a magical and imaginary world; there is life in every grain of mud to dew on the leaf. It’s not a village. It’s a LIFE.

    Blooming…

    Wild Flower

     

     

  • A Guide to Galle & Unawatuna, Sri Lanka

    A Guide to Galle & Unawatuna, Sri Lanka

    Traveling: It leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller-Ibn Battuta

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    This pretty city Galle situated by the shores of Indian Ocean at the southern most part of Sri Lanka still holds the charm of European styled buildings, cobbled stoned roads, red tiled roofs, flowered pots in the veranda & a fort built by Dutch takes you back to centuries of years when Portuguese & Dutch had stepped to Sri Lanka in 16th & 17th century.

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    Things to do in Galle

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    Although there isn’t anything specific or a huge list to be covered, a walk in the fort in itself is on the topmost things to do. Galle has been so far the quietest city I have been to in Sri Lanka, most of the old buildings have now been converted to either cafes or restaurants or a fancy tourist shop. There are high chances to be lost while walking around the fort as most of the buildings look similar, but getting lost will always take you to something better 🙂

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    I got lost once & this is where I ended up with the colorful Tuk Tuk’s lined up & colorful flowers hanging from the pots looked like they were made for each other.

    The Old Dutch Hospital which was built by Dutch as a hospital back then is now used for dining & shopping. Totally worth a visit if you are a foodie & a shopaholic like me 😉

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    There is a spectacular view of the cricket stadium from the fort, suppose to be one of the most beautiful stadiums in the world.

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    I also relished walking at the edge of the fort, watching the couples romancing under the umbrellas & hearing the silent waves kiss the shore. Water was as clear as the crystal & as blue as the sky, I sat here staring at the ocean for quite a while listening to all the life lessons they have been teaching.

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    Waves roar towards the shore,
    saying be wild & free.
    Wind whispers in my ears,
    saying be wild & free.
    Sun shines over my spine,
    saying be wild & free.

    Things to do in Unawatuna

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    Unawatuna is in the suburbs of Galle, a major tourist spot for its well known beach. I first landed at this sacred hill Rumasalla in Unawatuna where every plant/tree has some medicinal value. Tales of Ramayana flies around every part of this hill as this was one of the broken part fallen when Lord Hanumantha was carrying the Sanjeevani hill from India.

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    Japanese Peace Pagoda is located at a beautiful spot which has the views of the ocean, it is meant to shred Peace & the oceans across pours more shine to stay peaceful! At the entrance, there is also a statue of Lord Hanumantha as the tale in Rumasalla runs around him.

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    Jungle beach, this beach reminded me of Leonardo’s movie “The Beach”, from the walk to the beach till I reached the shore; the stills of the movie kept running in my head. It was my first time ever to walk alone in a secluded place & it was totally worth it. I witnessed one of the best sunsets as I was walking back from the beach.

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    Unawatuna beach is a little too crowded for me, although there are many restaurants if you would like to just go grab a beer & watch the ocean. That’s what I did 😉

    Where to stay

    Kikili House

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    Located in Galle & few minutes’ walk away from the fort; It’s a painting by itself, every step you take is filled with colors that tickles all over your body from head to toe, their quirky kitchen and the food served is a treat to your eyes and the stomach. Read the full post here, to stay at Kikili House they can be contacted through their website.

    Silva Tree House

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    Located between Galle & Unawatuna on the sacred hill Rumasalla, a glass house with the view of forest and my favorite is their bathroom with the view of ocean & forest J 15 minutes Tuk Tuk ride from Galle & a few minutes’ walk to Japanese Peace Pagoda, Jungle beach and Unawatuna beach. Read the full post here, to stay at Silva Tree House they can be contacted through Airbnb.

    Where to eat

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    There are plenty of options to eat in the Galle Fort & Dutch Hospital; I ate this yummy brinjal meal served on a leaf at “A minute by Tuk Tuk” & a drink at the “Hammock Café & Pub”. Hammock Café & Pub as the name says, where you swing on a hammock & chill with a drink.

    Otherwise, for a cheaper option, there are lots of street foods available at every corner of the road with yummy rolls, vade’s & kothu parathas.

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    How to reach

    Sri Lankan railways are very well connected to all the major cities/towns; there are trains from Negombo/Colombo to Galle. This whole journey is on the coastal route, it feels like train literally is floating on the ocean. Check this link to track the schedule of the trains in Sri Lanka.

    If you do not wish to wait for a train, there are plenty of buses as well from Negombo/Colombo to Galle.

    Bikes for rent are available too in most of the areas if you would like to travel around by yourself.

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    Blooming…

    Wild Flower