Tag: food

  • One Trail Many Stories

    One Trail Many Stories

    Everything I learned I learned from the movies-Audrey Hepburn

    Kolkata

    There is this part of me which floats in the scenes of movies, a part of me that always thinks how does a real-life will be if it was like in movies. With background music, slow motion of a leaf touching the ground, happy endings and sometimes sad endings too. And sometimes, I wonder if the movies are real and if we are living an imaginary life.

    I was introduced to West Bengal through a movie, a movie called Parineeta(Porineeta as they say). Many years ago, when I was in college and most of my classmates were from West Bengal. Other than marking West Bengal on a map for a question in a unit test during school days, I didn’t know much about the state. There were no blogs then or rather high-speed internet too to quickly google if I would like to know about a place.

    I am glad we didn’t though as West Bengal was introduced to me by the people, food and movies. I knew they loved food, even better if the food has fish and potato. I knew they love dressing up. I knew married ladies wear sindhoor in the partition where the hair gets divided to half, I knew they were white sarees with an elongated seragu (pallu), I knew they wear red and white bangles after marriage. I knew they all had someone else hidden in themselves-a poet, a singer, a writer, a dancer, an actor, an artist.

    So, when I stepped into Kolkata last month, even though it was the first time physically, in my mind there was a De Ja Vu moment. I knew I have been here already, it was through a movie. Again, there is this part of me that thinks, if movies are made of real-life or real-life is a movie itself.

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    The background music just plays though saying Piyu bole & I drift away to another world.

    Blooming…

    Wild Flower

  • Areca Nut Farms and their stories in Sirsi

    Areca Nut Farms and their stories in Sirsi

    Travelling: It leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller-Ibn Battuta

    Raindrops are dripping from the concaved mud tiled roof, sky touched palm trees sway along the wind, everyone’s working hard in the fields wearing a unique cap. This is a scene from a Kannada movie called “Nammoora Mandaara Hoove” and this is where I was introduced to Uttara Karnataka for the very first time when I was a kid. The scenes from the movie stamped on my memory and never faded, I had to visit these memories and experience them.

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    I stayed in a village called Hostota, 36 kilometers away from Sirsi Town at Vihar Home Stay. In a sedate ambiance where silence has its own meaning, paddy fields, and Areca Nut trees encircling the house; in my own solitude, I was embracing the feeling of the stills from the movie that was carved in my brain.

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    Niranjan Bhat who runs the homestay is an Ayurvedic doctor by profession but he was always passionate towards farming, he left his medical career to pursue his interest in farming. He says he is happier now working on the farm as this is what he grew up with and gives a sense of satisfaction to live the life with trees and birds. The homestay is an alternative income, once in a while I get to meet some interesting people but my priority is towards farming, he says.

    He has a great collection of vintage coins and ancient manuscripts made out of palm leaves; he also sculpts Ganesha idol for Ganesha festival in his house, he says it’s a family tradition. His grandfather and father have done this, he is doing it and says his son will carry it forward too.

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    The food is served to guests exactly the way they eat at home on a banana leaf; the one in the picture here was my first breakfast-Dose, Kai (coconut) Chutney, Chutney Pudi with shengai yenne (peanut oil) and Joni Bella (Liquid Jaggery). Food served to guests here is all vegetarian (Havyaka food as they call it) and vegetables are grown in their organic garden by their house.

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    I was served chutney made with garlic leaves and cucumber skin, one of the most creative heads with food I have ever met. Nothing goes waste; everything is converted to a splendid dish.

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    All across Uttara Karnataka, Multi-Crop farming is followed. As the name says, more than one crop is grown in the same field. Areca Nut, Pepper, Cardamom, Cocoa are all grown in the same field; this saves water, land space and also more yield at one go. Although each crop has their own season of harvesting, they work best in terms of preserving resources.

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    We went for a walk in the twilight to their Areca Nut farm; it was the season for Areca Nut harvesting. The first step is to climb the tree with a rope tied around the waist to hang the Machete and also to pull the other tree to jump on it.  Once he is done with one tree, he jumps to another tree. This is the riskiest job in the whole process and there is usually just one person who does this job in about 2-3 villages around. Once the Areca Nut is fallen to the ground, it will be picked up manually and taken for the next process.

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    After picking up, the orange and green ones are separated. Green ones are peeled as soon as they are plucked, orange ones are sun-dried and then peeled. The Areca nuts are peeled using a specific knife; the outer cover of the nut is removed.

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    The ladies come from a neighboring village and are paid daily wages along with tea and snacks. They were concerned about me traveling alone and asked me to bring my family the next time, as I took my phone out to take their photo they started to laugh. After a while got comfortable and suggested few places for me to visit around Sirsi.

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    Peeled Areca Nuts are immediately added to boiling water and is boiled approximately for about 45 minutes. All these steps are completed within 24 hours once the initial process of peeling starts. If there is too much gap after peeling, the quality of the final product goes low. Areca Nuts gets softer once boiled and should be constantly watched and removed at the right time, if not removed at the right time, this can harm the quality too. Once removed, they are dried and sold to market.

    The peeled skin of the Areca Nuts are used for mulching around the trees, this helps the soil to hold the moisture and also helps the roots during heavy rains. If not as mulch, they are mixed with cow dung and used as gobar. Yet again, nothing goes waste here!

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    Niranjan Bhat stirs the boiling pot to make sure the Areca Nuts are boiled at the right temperature and shares the tension about labor not being available off late as they are more attracted towards moving to the city. This has been the same in every village I have visited so far, it continues here too in Sirsi. He tells, how difficult it is to get them to work and how prompt they are with their timings, who would not want to stretch even for a minute if there is some extra work. He mentioned, I guess in few years we will need robots or it’s impossible to carry on with farming.

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    Most of the houses here have a story weaved in them; Niranjan Bhat’s ancestral house is one of them too. A 200 years old house, it takes 2 people to push the door wide open. The light passes through with high beam and spreads across the house; the strong pillars are holding the roof tighter creating an eternal love story. They moved out from this house as it was difficult to maintain, he took me around the house sharing his childhood memories. I was spellbound looking at the vastness the house offered, the light and fragrance of the wood etch a desire to build a house that shares stories like these.

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    I lived my childhood dream of visiting Uttara Karnataka in Hostota. I re-lived my dream.

  • Wandering Memories in 2017!

    Wandering Memories in 2017!

    Parties and loud music have never been my favorite thing to do, at least not during New Years. I prefer a quieter one, rather read a book or count stars. When 2017 arrived, I had to avoid invites and hide in a jungle where no one can find me. Instinctive decision told me to go to Sirsi, after a long search I found a place to stay and headed towards my first travel to Uttara Karnataka.

    Sirsi

    I was introduced to Uttara Karnataka through Kannada movies-misty mountains, tiled roof houses, a unique dialect of Kannada, areca nut trees, mind-boggling caves. These pictures that I had only seen in a movie came live in front of my eyes as the bus window started to cover with white curtains of mist. I stayed in a homestay 40 km away from Sirsi town, welcomed 2017 by counting stars, woke up on January 1st to birds chirping and went around Areca nut farms to know more about Areca Nut processing. Hiked to a waterfall in the morning and watched the sunset by evening, a calm New Year start.

    I then moved to another place close to Banavasi, stayed in an eco-friendly cottage, traveled through those caves that I had seen in movies, relished on Havyaka cuisine. I fell in love so much with Sirsi; I was here thrice in 2017.

    Also read: Areca Nut farms and their stories in Sirsi

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    Highlights: Areca Nut processing, lip-smacking food.

    Coorg

    Scotland of Karnataka as commonly known, I have traveled lengths and breaths to Coorg multiple times even before I turned to a full-time traveler. It is a commercialized tourist joint now, but a friend and I needed a break and we booked a homestay far off from the town. We hiked around a small forest looking for a water stream, enjoyed the food and rested all our worries in that small forest.

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    Highlights: Hike to the water stream.

    Nepal

    The first stamp on my new passport had to be from somewhere new, somewhere I had no expectations from, somewhere I had not really had any dreams set to. All of this was fulfilled when I planned my travels with my father to Nepal, it started dramatically with the flight cancelation. More than 24 hours delay and we were in Nepal, we stepped into this land without any expectations. The warmth of the people warmed our heart, the architecture of the palaces is incredibly beautiful, the stone carvings on the walls are breathtaking, scenic surroundings with river and paddy fields and the food at any corner of Nepal is to die for.

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    Highlights: People, food, and architecture.

    Bhutan

    One of the happiest countries in the world, this little paradise has to be on everyone’s list to visit. With their beautiful landscapes covering about 80% of forest, the happiness lies everywhere-in the air, in the leaves, in the river. Pine trees and rivers followed us everywhere, prayer flags swayed with the wind worshipping for prosperity. This country is surely one of the greatest gifts we have.

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    Highlights: Scenic landscapes, organic food.

    Gokarna

    Gokarna is one of those places that I can call home, for all those beautiful memories I have spent here; I decided to take my friend who had come to visit me for my birthday. I have always stayed at Om beach, this time I decided to change and enjoy the waves of Kudle beach. We stayed in a place with the view of the beach, few steps hike and there was a private view of the beach. The viewpoints are usually crowded but this one was just for the waves, sun and us. We enjoyed sipping the beer, reading the book and saying goodbye to the sun.

    I visited Gokarna twice this year, the second time I did not miss to spend time at my home-Om Beach.

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    Highlights: Sunset viewpoint.

    Dandeli

    Whoever is familiar with the word Dandeli, the first thing comes to their mind is rafting. And for me, it’s a different story, we took a bus from Gokarna to Dandeli; the drive through the tiger reserve and the paddy fields was something that I was not aware of in Dandeli. The step paddy field reminded me of the very famous Ubud paddy fields, Dandeli can surely give a tough competition to Ubud. We stayed in a homestay closer to a small town called Joida, amidst the paddy fields and flowering plants that our host had planted for butterflies. My birthday travels for this year, did really end colorfully.

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    Highlights: Scenic paddy fields, lush green forest, and food.

    Kerala

    Kerala always happens with a calling from the heart, something that kept me pushing to go to Kerala after my birthday travels. Last year, I had found out about an NGO called Kabani who are working towards Sustainable tourism; I couldn’t go then so decided to go now. Packed my bags and left for Kozhikode in the last week of October to volunteer with Kabani, traveled with Kabani to a village in Wayanad and learned the history of Kozhikode. Stayed for 44 days and all I can talk about is food, this is exactly the calling from the heart and that’s only because of food; food and my heart sync well and that’s where all the calling begins.

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    Highlights: Offbeat travel with sustainable practices, food.

    Blooming…

    Wild Flower

  • Experiencing the richness of life in Meemure

    Experiencing the richness of life in Meemure

    My richness is life, forever – Bob Marley

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    A road that has seen more animals than vehicles, the fragrance of freshly brewed tea brushes my face, a river gushing deep in the woods is so clear like its right next to me, drizzles play hide & seek with sun rays, butterflies are hovering around, there is a creaky noise and the vehicle stops. It was not a dream, I was in a place where dreams got its life, I was in a place where breeze got its wings, and I was in a place where drizzles got its rhythm. I take a deep breath, open my eyes & ears wide open; the driver says, it’s a tea break. I stepped out smelling petrichor and turned to a beautiful view surrounded by wildflowers, I ordered a Tea or Te as they call it and Vade.

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    Everyone in the van was excited to know I am from India, I spoke to them in Tamil so the kids assumed that I am good friends with Tamil Cinema (Kolywood) actors. They started to pass on their message which they requested me to share with their heroes. They shared their favorite movies, had a little fight amongst themselves supporting their own hero, invited me to their homes, insisted that I should never forget them and made sure that I will pass on their message to their heroes.

    Also, read People of Sri Lanka

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    Sri Lanka and India are very closely knit as we connect in the stories of Ramayana, when I was at Rumasalla I was told Sita was kept here after Ravana kidnapped her. In the van I met a teacher who showed me the cone-shaped mountain called Lakegala, telling that Ravana designed his airplane on that mountain and flew from there many times to India and one of the times was to kidnap Sita. It is said that he chose that mountain due to its shape which was easier for the plane to take off.

    Also, read Sacred Hill in Ramayana

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    It was 5 in the evening when I entered my host’s house where I was welcomed with pepper creepers and areca nut; I sat in the verandah watching a leech slowly moving and there comes the man in his tuk-tuk. A long grey beard, thick mustache that he maneuvered as he approached me; we greeted with Namaste, he said let’s go for a walk in the village. I was exhausted and asked if we can go tomorrow, he said why tomorrow, let’s go now. I grinned and we started walking on the thick concrete road along the roof tiled evenly built houses, I was introduced to everyone whom we met on the way as India, and they asked if I have come alone. He says yes, he smiles, I smile, they smile and we move on.

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    This tree is 400 years old, as old as the village he said; also considered as a sacred tree of the village. The villagers gather here for a chit-chat or for any discussions related to the village. Thinking of the number of stories and gossips this tree must have stored in his trunk, I sat under its shade listening to the eerie air that passed by each leaf of paddy. I asked him how many families live here and he said about 120 families with around 600 people. With the rich paddy fields everywhere, it was very evident that paddy is their major source of income but they also have additional crops like beans and pepper. They also generate income from Kitul Honey, honey extracted from a palm tree called Kitul and from Jaggery; some of them generate income through tuk-tuk as well. For the past few years, this village has fallen in the eyes of travelers which are turning out to be a good source of income too.

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    Mr. Navaratna, 52 years young man, my host proudly says he is the only man who can speak English in the village, in the year 2000 he started to host travelers in his house. His house is a mini-museum with some unique wooden handicrafts and the traditional tools used for farming and cooking; all displayed in his verandah. The food, my favorite episode of this life where I get alive again came to me on the dining table; this was the best Sri Lankan food my taste buds have relished. The spices were glowing in the food; the result of organic farming showed up in every bite I savored.

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    After our dinner, few boys from the village joined us who shared some of their adventurous stories around the village. They were talking about the hikes and group of people who come to hike on Lakegala, there are also many trails they have discovered through Meemure that connects to another side of Lakegala which lasts for few days. Just a thought of it gets me Goosebumps; that’s how dense and beautiful the forest is. I dropped off my excitement to do this the next time and started to savor the freshly brewed coconut arrack.

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    A new day begun, I came out of my room to see him sharpening his machete, why do we need this, I asked. We are entering a forest, this is for our safety. I took a gulp of my saliva, rubbed my palms with fear and followed him into the forest. Do you have such forest in India? I said yeah, we do have such forests. Do you have anything like Meemure? Ah, well India is too big and yes we do have such beautiful and remote villages in India too I said. We laughed, it echoed and then a perfect silence. Echoes continued for a while and he stopped to pick up some plastic covers, look how tourism is slowly spoiling the nature. I always tell my travelers not to litter anywhere but there are few locals who come to spoil the place, whined for a while and moved with our echoes again.

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    We stopped by a waterfall, he says let’s rest here for a bit; I lie down on the rock staring at the sky, thanking the universe for letting me see this wonderful gift given by nature itself. Ah, then there comes my friends’ leeches to play around on my feet, I panicked for a bit initially and then started to ignore and initiated conversations with the trees.

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    After a while, we stopped at another waterfall, I will have to say; it was straight out of a magical land. I felt like I was in one of those fairytale books where I could smell the fragrance of flowers, butterflies all around me fluttering around, water ripples formed by the waterfall was so inviting to take a dip. I turned around and saw Navaratna Aiyya in a deep sleep; I was in my sleep too with my eyes open. He woke up and says; it’s so peaceful here; I always fall asleep as soon as I reach this place. He also told me that this fall was named after him as he discovered it, but there were few other people who claimed that’s not true.  What’s there in a name? I chose to just leave it as is and call it as my “Fairytale dream”.

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    Our excited Navaratna Aiyya took me to another waterfall where he made me slide and jump, although I am water phobic; he insisted that I get rid of my fears and I did. As we walked back, I saw one of the most amazing sunsets behind the Lakegala Mountain. The colors the sun had left been reflecting on the paddy fields like a mirror, the houses were lit up and I saw farmers still working in the field. We also met a blind man who was working on the road, I was so inspired by his dedication; no one in this village sits idle. If they are idle, that’s only to have a laugh together over a drink.

    I was told earlier about zero network coverage in Meemure, except for few landlines in the house. They have electricity that is generated by hydroelectric power only in the night funded by United Nations. There is only one van that operates once a day to and fro from the nearby town called Hunnasgiriya, it’s a 15+1 seater van and about 50 people manage to sit, stand, sit on others lap, hang on the door! Oh, it’s not just people, even their crops are sent by only this van to the town market! Police have never stepped in the village; if there are any problems they solve by themselves. There is one post office that operates from this village and one school that teaches until 5th grade, they need to go to the nearby village to study till 10th and then to town to continue further.

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    I had to pinch myself many times to know if this is a reality; it is hard to believe that a life like this exists.  I was wrapped in a magical and imaginary world; there is life in every grain of mud to dew on the leaf. It’s not a village. It’s a LIFE.

    Blooming…

    Wild Flower

     

     

  • Soul Search: Galkadawala!

    Soul Search: Galkadawala!

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    Maulie who owns this beauty purchased land here and have this beautiful setup right in between a jungle, surrounded by a beautiful lake. We had conversations from traveling, politics, religion, food to marriages. I have an inclination towards antique pieces; the kind of art and paint on the walls, interiors in the rooms, open (firewood) kitchen everything formed to be an antique piece which is one of its own kinds.

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    Being a foodie needless to mention, this is the best vegetarian food I have had till date. Most of the dishes here are cooked on fire wood; every meal/snack I ate was unique and super tasty. They make Jaggery and this sweet syrup (Kitul Pani) out of this Palm tree called Kitul nut. I sipped the coffee and took a bite of the Jaggery, that’s how it is supposed to be had. Later I had this yogurt made of buffalo milk along with the sweet syrup; I just couldn’t get enough of it and requested Maulie to serve me this the next day as well.

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    These two boys took me around to show this beautiful lake, with the silence all around, literally one of these guys walking in front of me and other one walking behind me. It took me few minutes to get them together for a picture.

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    I sat by the lake and meditated for a while; peace is what I had around me. Sun was almost wrapping up for the day, birds chirping, gentle wind cooling the lake, trees moving with the flow and their reflection on the water. I was trying to figure out if the tree was moving or it was the water, there was one dry tree amongst all the green trees which dragged my attention while most of the birds were resting on it. Extreme levels of Solitude with only birds, animals, and nature around, Paulo Coelho is right: if you really want something the entire universe will help you to achieve it; yes universe was all around me and this is what I had wished for. While I was relishing on my dreams, could sense someone tickling my stomach. Oh, it was those caterpillars turning into colorful butterflies 🙂

    Also, read Unplanned Plans!

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    Thanks to Shivya Nath’s post, I wouldn’t have found this wonderful place if not for that.

    Blooming…

    Wild Flower