I crossed from one mountain to another mountain, from rain forest to evergreen forest, from one form of solitude to another. At the elevation of 3000 ft as I took my first step on the ground where rain had just danced & the clouds were slowly clearing up, I was welcomed to Artist Cottage. Vipula Perera, a textile engineer by profession & drawing has always been his hobby since he was a kid. After spending years in Japan & USA, he returned to Sri Lanka to spend time in his home country after retirement. Also got influenced by the art form both in Japan & USA, Vipula continued his passion towards drawing & now has developed his niche in line drawings.
While looking for a place to build a studio & practice his drawings somewhere close to nature, he found this beautiful piece of land in Beragala Mountains, Haputale. Landscape architecture has also been his hobby where he has created some brilliant places in Sri Lanka & California. This place seemed like an ideal place to build a studio & a getaway retreat; he also came up with an idea to invite artists from all across the world to work or even conduct workshops that would benefit each other as artists. That’s how the two beautiful cottages came up with the view of mountains & the weather here stays cold all through the year 🙂
It rained most of the days that I stayed here, I tried to be indoors which is unlikely me but the cottages & the view from those French windows were just more than beautiful to just let them go. The view from the cottage kept kindling me to continue with drawing that I had stopped long ago, cannot even remember when! Oh yes, I did start drawing again.
Yet another place that served delicious Srilankan food cooked by a local family entangled me to stay even more in one place; eat & stare at the mountains.
One of the days, when the clouds cleared up I decided to walk up the hill & ended up near a Tamil school. We call it Champa & the English name is Plumeria, the place was filled with the fragrance of this flower, on the ground, on the tree & decorated everywhere. This definitely looked like a kid’s art; they were peeping from their classroom & finally came out to talk to me. I conversed with them in Tamil & also with their teacher and then they posed for a picture. I tried to visit those kids until I was there, shared some giggles, spoke to their parents & also shared some laughter with their grandparents.
Those mountains, that cloud, this tree, hey butterfly, hello bird, they were all to myself; this is how I would converse with them. After some extensive traveling & socializing, I had to rejuvenate myself being in solitude around these beautiful creatures. Chugging up in the blanket, sometimes I would draw, read & write, sometimes sit still & let my brain fight with all the thoughts that’s been bothering me, if I don’t find a solution then I would start staring at the window on how clouds come together to let the rain dance, feeling the soft sway of breeze through my hair, looking at few birds screech while flying through the rain, and when the rain stops dancing the clouds slowly clear up to show how beautiful the sky is.
What if all these beautiful creatures are having a conversation to create this beautiful pattern, What if the mountains & trees send these clouds to pass messages on to the flip side, What if the rain & beautiful sky were just to celebrate once the messages have been reached 🙂
*I was hosted by Artist Cottage, would you like to have a conversation with nature too? Then pop in soon!
Traveling: It leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller-Ibn Battuta
This pretty city Galle situated by the shores of Indian Ocean at the southern most part of Sri Lanka still holds the charm of European styled buildings, cobbled stoned roads, red tiled roofs, flowered pots in the veranda & a fort built by Dutch takes you back to centuries of years when Portuguese & Dutch had stepped to Sri Lanka in 16th & 17th century.
Things to do in Galle
Although there isn’t anything specific or a huge list to be covered, a walk in the fort in itself is on the topmost things to do. Galle has been so far the quietest city I have been to in Sri Lanka, most of the old buildings have now been converted to either cafes or restaurants or a fancy tourist shop. There are high chances to be lost while walking around the fort as most of the buildings look similar, but getting lost will always take you to something better 🙂
I got lost once & this is where I ended up with the colorful Tuk Tuk’s lined up & colorful flowers hanging from the pots looked like they were made for each other.
The Old Dutch Hospital which was built by Dutch as a hospital back then is now used for dining & shopping. Totally worth a visit if you are a foodie & a shopaholic like me 😉
There is a spectacular view of the cricket stadium from the fort, suppose to be one of the most beautiful stadiums in the world.
I also relished walking at the edge of the fort, watching the couples romancing under the umbrellas & hearing the silent waves kiss the shore. Water was as clear as the crystal & as blue as the sky, I sat here staring at the ocean for quite a while listening to all the life lessons they have been teaching.
Waves roar towards the shore,
saying be wild & free.
Wind whispers in my ears,
saying be wild & free.
Sun shines over my spine,
saying be wild & free.
Things to do in Unawatuna
Unawatuna is in the suburbs of Galle, a major tourist spot for its well known beach. I first landed at this sacred hill Rumasalla in Unawatuna where every plant/tree has some medicinal value. Tales of Ramayana flies around every part of this hill as this was one of the broken part fallen when Lord Hanumantha was carrying the Sanjeevani hill from India.
Japanese Peace Pagoda is located at a beautiful spot which has the views of the ocean, it is meant to shred Peace & the oceans across pours more shine to stay peaceful! At the entrance, there is also a statue of Lord Hanumantha as the tale in Rumasalla runs around him.
Jungle beach, this beach reminded me of Leonardo’s movie “The Beach”, from the walk to the beach till I reached the shore; the stills of the movie kept running in my head. It was my first time ever to walk alone in a secluded place & it was totally worth it. I witnessed one of the best sunsets as I was walking back from the beach.
Unawatuna beach is a little too crowded for me, although there are many restaurants if you would like to just go grab a beer & watch the ocean. That’s what I did 😉
Where to stay
Kikili House
Located in Galle & few minutes’ walk away from the fort; It’s a painting by itself, every step you take is filled with colors that tickles all over your body from head to toe, their quirky kitchen and the food served is a treat to your eyes and the stomach. Read the full post here, to stay at Kikili House they can be contacted through their website.
Silva Tree House
Located between Galle & Unawatuna on the sacred hill Rumasalla, a glass house with the view of forest and my favorite is their bathroom with the view of ocean & forest J 15 minutes Tuk Tuk ride from Galle & a few minutes’ walk to Japanese Peace Pagoda, Jungle beach and Unawatuna beach. Read the full post here, to stay at Silva Tree House they can be contacted through Airbnb.
Where to eat
There are plenty of options to eat in the Galle Fort & Dutch Hospital; I ate this yummy brinjal meal served on a leaf at “A minute by Tuk Tuk” & a drink at the “Hammock Café & Pub”. Hammock Café & Pub as the name says, where you swing on a hammock & chill with a drink.
Otherwise, for a cheaper option, there are lots of street foods available at every corner of the road with yummy rolls, vade’s & kothu parathas.
How to reach
Sri Lankan railways are very well connected to all the major cities/towns; there are trains from Negombo/Colombo to Galle. This whole journey is on the coastal route, it feels like train literally is floating on the ocean. Check this link to track the schedule of the trains in Sri Lanka.
If you do not wish to wait for a train, there are plenty of buses as well from Negombo/Colombo to Galle.
Bikes for rent are available too in most of the areas if you would like to travel around by yourself.
The principles of true art is not to portray, but to evoke – Jerzy Kosinski
Dating back to thousands of years, India holds rich heritage in many art forms. One of them is Dhokra, which is being practiced for more than 4,000 years originated in West Bengal and now is practiced in most of the regions in India.
As much as most of our art forms are still practiced but hasn’t been recognized & rewarded as they deserve to be, they are slowly becoming extinct. Dhokra which is also widely practiced in Gadchiroli faced a major threat of naxalites that affected the adivasi craftsmen’s work to pursue it effectively.
Under an old Ficus tree an idea was seeded in 2008, which has now grown up to be Devrai Art Village an NGO in Panchgani that has created a platform for these craftsmen by nurturing their art work. Ms. Mandakini Mathur, founder of Devrai Art Village partnered with Mr. Suresh Pangati who is a craftsman by himself forming a creative set of team of adivasi craftsmen from Gadchiroli & Chhattisgarh.
Panchgani in Satara District in Maharashtra which is located on the Sahyadri mountain ranges is very well known for table land which is also the second longest mountain plateau in Asia and their strawberry farms. Stunning views of small hamlets in the alley, lush green paddy fields, Karvi flowers just starting to bloom and the still green mountains surrounding the whole town adds like glitters to the beauty of Panchgani.
Speaking about Dhokra, it is an art form that uses lost wax casting where a metal (Brass, Silver, Gold, etc) sculpture is formed using a mould which either can be made of wax or clay. I spent most of my time in Devrai by interacting with artists watching them manoeuvre their hands to form beautiful sculptures under the old Ficus tree.
Once in 15/20 days casting process takes place and I was lucky to see this as it was in progress on the day I reached. Shankar Nag, one of the artists explains how casting takes place. Every sculpture is shielded by mud that forms a mould and heated up for about 3-4 hours, at the same time brass is boiled for about 3-4 hours. Once the mould is heated, brass is poured and allowed to cool for a while before it’s broken & taken to the next process. As the process in itself was such a beauty to watch, I was also drawn to just stare at the fire & the boiling brass.
Once the mould is broken, the next step involves cleaning & providing the final touch.The sculpture is heated again to dip in Potassium Permanganate & the last step is Buffing! Entire process would at least take about 2 weeks to get the final product.
Rock Dhokra is a new feather added to the traditional Dhokra art, one of its kinds which were invented at Devrai. I spent some time with Suresh to understand the process of Rock Dhokra. Stones are picked by the river, based on the shape of the stone artists decide on what sculpture can be formed. Artists design the shape around the stone using bee wax; it is then moulded with mud (brought from Gadchiroli) and heated. Suresh says, there were many challenges when they started Rock Dhokra as the brass needs to be heated at the right temperature. A slight variation in the temperature can also cause damage to the sculpture which adds to more work on the next process.
This piece was made using a wooden bark!
Devrai Art Village also offers workshops for who is interested in learning the art form, internships for the art & design students, they also have apprentice from the adivasi community who learn the art form to make their living.
Let Devrai grow as mighty as a tree along with many other art forming branches leading to fruitful artists! If you would like to buy their art or contribute to Devrai please visit their Facebook page or check out their website.
Devrai Art Gallery!
2 years ago Mathur’s family extended their house with an intention to form a likeminded community by hosting creative set of people like artists, writers, designers, etc. Different species of trees, ponds filled with lilies, birds singing all day, beautifully built house with the view of valley, gallery displaying their art work, super friendly dogs & a warm family with creative minds makes your visit more peaceful & comfortable. If you would like to stay at Devrai, you can find them at Airbnb.
That was my view, reading & writing spot for 2 days at Devrai Art Village.
If you are in Panchgani in September, make sure to be part of Karvi Festival which is an Art festival in harmony with Music & Nature. They have live bands performing in a cave & nature trails organized witnessing Karvi flowers that bloom once in 8 years.
If you slow things down, you notice things you had not seen before – Robert Wilson
Dusk had kicked in; I was in Deniyaya bus stand where even the street lights were off. I heard a voice…it was Ranjith, Tuk Tuk driver who had come to pick me up. A relief, but was still not sure if I got into the right Tuk Tuk. He stopped at a point and asked me to get off, it was as dark as black. I could only hear water gushing; I flashed my torch & saw few trees. We had to cross the river with my two big bags to enter the forest. After 20 minutes of hike, I finally saw a light. We entered the gate & he introduced me to Katrina, Hi I said & then took a deep breath that I am safe, sound & alive! Sigh!
Next morning I woke up to the bright sun rays kicking through the window, glared quietly to a view of dense forest, Sinharaja Forest. I knew I was going to stay here for long, when I saw those trees & heard birds chirping, I was sure that I will. Traveling is an experience, once you stay longer in any place all these experiences grows into you spreading around like branches and keeps you grounded like roots. Those experiences are like nutrients that keep you enriched which moulds to be a better person.
Sam & Karina who quit their jobs & came here few years ago to setup their dream home, they also witnessed deforestation at the same time. They have planted around 800 + tress growing their own vegetables & fruits practicing sustainable living, using only solar power: they call it as Natural Mystic Sanctuary. It is heart wrenching to hear the trees that have been cut & was replaced by tea plantations. As most of the forest, Sinharaja Forest is also under threat; they are doing their bit to contribute to the nature.
The farthest white dot seen is Natural Mystic Sanctuary.Open natural shower at their house!
One of the late evenings, Katrina took us for a hike in the forest which is now slowly converting to tea plantations; we watched the sunset through the shimmering leaves & headed back. This is what happens when the need is replaced with greed 😦
My reading spot by the river, also some work for the fish to nibble on my feet.
I have always found coolest places to do yoga and this was one of the best where a place was setup under an old oak tree where apparently a big cobra lives in, the thought of it was even more fun to practice yoga 😉
As curious as always, I had to see the local market where farmers sell their crops, and we all headed to shop. This market was covered by netted clothes as roof which seemed like a colorful path when the sun rays were passing through the net.
Wood fire pizza we made on one of the rainy day!
Renuka from a nearby village comes here to cook, one day she came to me with a plate of Vade and she said India. She meant this is from India; I giggled, nodding yes and she says she watches all cookery shows from India and learns lot of recipes. Next day, a mid aged man says Vanakkam (greeting a person in Tamil), he said he is Renuka’s uncle. She had told him that I am from India; he invited us home sharing his stories that he was brought up here; his older brother (Renuka’s father) speaks better Tamil than him. He also mentioned that many years ago, most of the property in Deniyaya was owned by Chettiyar’s: one of the renowned Tamil families. It rained all day and we couldn’t go to their house, next day Renuka seemed upset that they were all waiting for us with pan cakes, tea and tender coconut 😦
We promised to go with her the same day, Jabba also accompanied us. It was raining all through our walk, locals taking a dip in the water, washing clothes, glittering paddy fields, tall palm trees, cows grazing, tired trees with scorching heat looked all cheered up soaking in the rain!
She lives in a nearby village called Batandura, houses here are painted with bright colors which looks like a painting by itself. We were served with super delicious tea & I was conversing with her father in Tamil. He said his father moved to Sri Lanka many years ago and they later got adapted to Sinhalese culture. Renuka’s husband works in a tea factory which was shut recently as they did not have work due to less rain, Renuka works as a cook to manage the family. Her kids got dressed up in their new clothes & shoes that were purchased for their New Year and we all stood for a group photo! Say cheese!
Why do we travel? To meet such wonderful people and for such experiences that keeps you enriched & also moulds to be a better person.
How do we change the world? One random act of kindness at a time-Morgan Freeman
Most of the holidays in school was spent in my village, stealing mangoes, climbing up the rocks, attending fairs, relishing home cooked meals, climbing trees, playing local games, getting drenched in rain, ploughing field, jumping on hay, phew the list can go on! As I grew up, number of visits to village reduced and eventually faded away. But I have always missed that life, a life without worries, a life without responsibilities, a life without deadlines, a Life that had a meaning for Life!
To re-live that life again in many places is why I travel, and subconsciously when I make my travel plans I have always been inclined towards staying in villages. This is where flavors of the culture can be tasted, this is where life of every creature is treated with respect, and this is where unsung stories can be heard. Weerawila located in Hambantota district of Sri Lanka is one of them that I was drawn to; on my drive to this village I was virtually taken back to my childhood memories. This village is surrounded by Weerawila Lake and the only lake in Sri Lanka that has a road built over connecting from Matara to Wellawaya.
There were few setbacks before I reached Weerawila as the care taker was sick and the place was under renovation, I was just too stubborn to not give up and insisted that I would like to visit at least for a day. Punchi Aiya was taking care of the place as Mr. Riza who owns lives in a different town; I did not know the severity of his sickness until I reached. He had undergone breast cancer operation few weeks ago!
I was too embarrassed for being so stubborn, at the same overwhelmed to meet a kind soul like him. He was there with me taking care all around by providing coconut water, lemon juice, coffee, tea! Although, I tried explaining several times not to and he wouldn’t stop serving food. He couldn’t speak English and I couldn’t speak Sinhalese, we managed to communicate non-verbally! Non-verbal communication skills takes a step ahead when you travel, don’t know the language! Body language comes for your rescue 🙂
Lunch served in Punchi Aiya’s daughter’s house!
Thin line of breeze sway from the dry paddy leaves as I stroll around the fields watching the lake, staring at the really far off mountains. I sit next to a pile of hay (didn’t jump on it) watching sun slowly shed light across the sky! Watched every phase and mesmerized on how skillfully color changes every few minutes just before sun was gulped by the flip side of the earth! Departures are always beautiful, aren’t they?
So are arrivals J I see this orange ball playing with the lake, lazy buffaloes just chilling by the side, hundreds of birds flying and there the sun emerges to brighten up another day. Punchi Aiya then took me to herd of buffaloes to get milk for coffee, oh so far the best coffee I have had. He is also an expert in night fishing in the lake, he has a unique technique of burning fire on a coconut shell, this is used as the light in the dark to attract fish and when they come closer he hits them with his lance.
I have mentioned this several times in many posts that Peacock’s are my favorite bird, everywhere place I have visited in Sri Lanka has Peacock’s at every corner you turn into. I was sipping coffee and trying to have some non-verbal communication with Punchi Aiya and there comes a peacock next to us screaming. One of the best nature’s creations is these colorful birds.
Uniqueness of this accommodation is all the Land rover parts have been used very creatively in the washroom!Pistons as toothbrush holder and side mirror in the shower!
I happened to meet Arjuna one of Punchi Aiya’s relative who is a BCom graduate, worked in Japan for 3 years. Now he is undergoing a training to become a tour guide and he is also a certified Japanese teacher. When I asked him why towards tourism, he said he likes traveling, meet people from other countries and would like to improve his English. We were discussing on how tourism has emerged in Sri Lanka for the past few years and the impact that this island has witnessed!
He shared his travel stories in Japan and how much he likes traveling within his country that made him switch his career towards tourism. Every time I have second thoughts about me quitting job, I meet someone like Arjuna who keeps my decision strong to pursue my dream. Arjuna is also a huge fan of bolywood movies and he says Aamir Khan is his favorite actor.
He explained why the village is called Weerawila, Weera is a tree that grows in this area and Wila is small natural lake, there is a port in Hambantota which was mostly used by migrants those times, one of those boat named as Hamban and Tota is Port and hence the name Hambantota! We went for a walk by the lake sharing our travel stories and how similar the culture is in India & Sri Lanka.
For the first time, I have seen a huge lemon like this. Punchi Aiya, made us fresh lime juice from this lemon. Peacocks were gazing and screaming in front of us, as we sipped the lime juice it was time for me to leave! After having met Punchi aiya, faith in humanity has restored and has shot up to many levels high! Of course it’s a beautiful world out there, would have I learnt all these in my cubicle job! No, this is why I travel!
Always remember that one little act of kindness can tilt the balance of an entire situation. One little act of kindness can ripple out in countless ways that you many never know about. (Read this on the net)
Our admiration of the antique is not admiration of the old, but of the natural-Ralph Waldo Emerson
I paused; I could hear something when I reached a far off unknown land. It was my blood rushing through my veins; I knew I was going somewhere far, really far! Wheels of the bus start gliding on road through a forest, I knew I was going somewhere far, really far! My eyes didn’t want to rest for a second admiring nature; there is an elephant on one side and a dancing peacock on the other side! I knew I was going somewhere far, really far!
My backpack & I stepped out of the bus after 30 minutes of this warm welcome by nature, I knew I was going somewhere far, really far! Celebration of my arrival continued opening up to glittering corn fields, sun shine was sprinkling on the corn turning to golden lights that was beaming till a far off lake. Locals were greeting me with their beautiful smile, kids were peeping through the trees throwing a shy smile! I knew I was going somewhere far, really far!
Dry leaves were mizzling on me as I entered Galapita Rocks; I stand still watching the colorful leaves on ground. Those colorful leaves turn into beautiful shoes, I take a step ahead with a grin on my face looking at the hanging bridge. Gems in the river were crawling up forming a tiara; I slowly move my fingers on the rail of the bridge and start walking. Wind swirls around me with beautiful beads transforming to a gorgeous gown! I knew I was going somewhere far, really far! I was in the medieval age!
I was so mesmerized by the whole place and when asked about the history: It was started in 1995 by Mr. Rukman De Fonseka who found this land near Buttala while traveling with a friend, this land was then used for slash and burn cultivation by the local farmers. Mr. Rukman designed this whole place and was initially used as a place for a getaway with his friends. Electricity came to this village only few years ago, this place was then converted to a yoga & meditation centre. It is also a famous spot for river bathing; this river is located by the side of Gem River called Menik River which runs till Kataragama temple. Once a barren land is now home for Teak, Palm, Mango and many trees, Galapita means “Rock on a Rock” which is visible from this place and hence named Galapita Rocks!
Vibrantly lit room with antique pieces, soothing noise of the gushing river, pond with lily pads next to the bed, crystal stones throwing light to the room, courtyard to relax gazing at the huge trees forming a pathway for river to pass, a place to read/write, moon light sprinkling the entire place! I fall asleep with a smile as moon sways its reflection on the pond.
My eardrums were knocked by the screams of peacock and my eyes were softened by the gentle sun rays!Open shower with dry leaves on the ground, like I was showering somewhere deep in the forest!Yoga by the river, breeze to chill my soaked skin! What more can I ask for?Tree top was setup to have a bird’s view of the entire land, also to witness amazing sunrise or sunset!Every gem and an antique piece found around this area are showcased in this Museum, Agasti!Take a dip in the river crawling through the rocks, if you are lucky you can find some gem stones! Luck was all I had when I reached here 😉
The Crystal Lounge, Dining area is no less with the antique pieces and crystal stones surrounded. Lip smacking food is served on mud plates, and every meal was unique with the touch of taste cooked by locals. I don’t have to justify anymore that I was treated like a princess!
One of my favorite spot here was to sit and gaze at the sugarcane field for hours while I spotted a monitor lizard and a dragon in the sun!
Friends who gave me company as I was gazing at the sugarcane fields!Full moon day is called as Poya, which also calls for a public holiday in Sri Lanka.What’s with me and the love towards antique pieces, they are just a sheer beauty! Untouched!
*I was hosted by Galapita Rocks, I have just been too lucky!
Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow-Anita Desai
I have learned a lot while traveling, mostly from the people I meet who always have a positive impact on my life! Hence, I am always choosy on the place I travel to & most importantly the place I stay in; I believe the relationship you hold with hosts has a serious impact on the place you consider as a home for the days you stay in. One of such amazing hosts I met are Sala & Bludgy & this is how!
I was looking for eco-friendly places to stay in; I found their website & shot them an email. They said they have moved to a different location but they are starting something new very soon. I saw the pictures of their new setup; it was an overnight dream that came true. Just a few days ago before I reached their place, I had seen a picture exactly like this on Instagram and thought I should stay in a place like this someday!
Sala was talking about how they came up with this concept, they have been seeing people cutting trees to increase the number of places to stay for travelers, and they were not very happy with it, so had to come up with this concept of not harming trees & can still host travelers. This could be an example to everyone who thinks cutting trees is the only solution; also they are having all their guests to plant a tree as well. They even segregate garbage; dump the garbage that can be recycled as manure in a pit to use it for plants. The soil is really good here, manure is not really needed but it is just one of the ways to use the garbage effectively by not harming nature; he adds.
Sala & Bludgy both quit their jobs in advertising & followed their passion for paintings, to make it more accessible they have those paintings printed on T-shirts. He was talking about him wearing a tie & presenting to clients & I was sharing the job that I was doing that I never liked. When asked why they decided to quit, they said they found more happiness in what they are doing right now than their earlier 9-5 job. It was not even a month since I had quit my job; I was still struggling with the post syndrome and I realized I have made the right decision too. I learned that Quitting job is not a big deal, accepting the life that throws at you after quitting is!
It was a big day while I was staying at their place, along with my friend in Bengaluru we had finished 48 days of 108 Surya Namaskara & still continues!Oh, you yummy breakfast!
We have had long conversations over dinner about how India & Sri Lanka were rich with Diamonds & Gems, spices, crops & so much richer in the culture before Portuguese, Dutch & British invaded and how we are struggling now to save our own culture. I was curious to know about this indigenous tribe in Sri Lanka called Veddas, I had read about how they originated earlier in a book and Sala was talking about how there is a change now in their lifestyle with modern technologies taking over all our lives.
I was a poet during my stay here, read through; it will explain how beautiful this place is!
It was dark & lovely,
I am floating in the air.
Fireflies passed by like twinkling stars,
I am floating in the air.
Peacocks screams at a distance as I fall into trap of sleep,
I am floating in the air.
I walk into a dreamland with fireflies & peacocks,
I am floating in the air.
Sleep releases my eyes to birds chirping,
I am floating in the air.
Sit at the edge of a rock staring at the trees,
Sit on the hammock reading a book for ages.
Lie down until the sun keeps winking,
Lie down until the stars start twinkling.
We all have one life to live,
Let’s just Live! Live! Live!
I have learned how to celebrate life from them, how to manage daily tasks along with work and a baby & two dogs, how to have balance in a relationship, how to look for happiness in everything you do, basically just how to celebrate life!
Our Peace shall stand as far as rocky mountains-William Shakespeare
Ramayana is one of story that we Indian kids grow up hearing to by our grandparents or parents or on a TV series; we all know that Sri Lanka plays a major part in Ramayana. As I got into the Tuk Tuk to go to my next destination, driver Kumara started telling the story about this hill Rumasalla & yes it was part of Ramayana.
When Ravana kidnapped Sita, he hid her around many places in Sri Lanka to avoid the very strong Hanumantha. This is one of the hills where Ravana hid Sita, Laxmana (Rama’s brother) who came looking for Sita was injured and Hanumantha did not find any medicine for the cure, he went looking for it in Himalayas. He carried the hill and came to Sri Lanka, while he was flying pieces of the hill fell in few places and one of them is in Rumasalla. Every plant/tree here is supposed to have some medicinal quality.
As Kumara was sharing the story climbing up the hill, I was gazing at the trees and went back to my childhood imagining all the characters of Ramayana that I remember seeing in the TV series. Noise of the engine of Tuk Tuk stopped and I stepped back to reality, as I got down there were 2 smiling ladies waiting to greet me and there was my destination.
At the first sight when I looked at the house, it looked like a gift wrapped by trees around and tied with branches as a ribbon. I released a branch and stepped into the gift, it appeared like I was in illusion when I walked in. I slowly take steps on wooden floor; I see the reflection of trees & myself on the glass walls. Like a magical gift that I walked into, it took me few minutes to realize I was still in the normal world! John calls this magical gift as Silva Tree House.
Next day morning, I woke up to the peaceful prayers from the nearby Japanese Pagoda, sunlight sneaking through the French windows, not too far away ocean. I open my eyes slowly and stretch my arms as the cool breeze from the trees sneaks in.
Dining Hall & Lounge at the roof top!Traditional Sri Lankan hoppers for breakfastWith a view like this, it was too difficult to come out of the shower!Could capture Silva Tree House on my way back from the short walk!
I always chose to stay in eco-friendly places, I was happy to know that there were no trees cut when this house was built except for one tree that was removed as it was rotten. Water used here is only rain water; they are working on setting up the electricity to be completely solar. It was learning for me and also surprising to know that the sewage here runs through the natural filters like stones & gravels.
As always, on my morning yoga!Japanese Pagoda & statue of Hanumantha on Rumasalla hill!
When asked what is so unique about this hill, John mentioned; Sir. Arthur C Clarke, a renowned British science fiction writer had a holiday house in Rumasalla because of the strong magnetic meridians passing through the headland. Magnetic Meridian is an equivalent imaginary line connecting the magnetic south and north poles and can be taken as the horizontal component of magnetic force lines along the surface of the earth. Therefore, a compass needle will be parallel to the magnetic meridian. Fascinating isn’t it? Of course, even I didn’t know what Magnetic Meridian means; explanation mentioned above is from Wikipedia. Another surprise, this hill also attracts more lightning than anywhere in Sri Lanka.
Walk does seem like how Leonardo finds that secretive island in the movie Beach!Just one of those days when Sun chose to swim 😉
Jungle Beach and Unawatuna Beach are both are at walkable distance from Silva Tree House, although me not being very beachy person; I preferred to walk to Jungle Beach as the walk through jungle sounded exciting. It is about 15 minutes walk and I totally felt safe through the Jungle, it was the first time where I walked through a jungle alone. Fear of not being safe on one side and the noise of waves hitting my ears on the other side kept me walking.
Let this gift be unwrapped with many more surprises all along.
*I was hosted by Silva Tree House; you have to stay here to witness some more surprises.
Color creates, enhances, changes, reveals and establishes the mood of the painting-Kiff Holland
Take a Canvas, spill some colors and swing it around! That’s how this place was made, in one of the very quiet roads in Galle. I stepped in with swollen legs, eyes craving for sleep and shoulders begging for some rest; restlessly I sat on the colorful couch lifting my head up; I could hear my shoulders screaming thank you, my eyes weren’t blinking watching the colors on the roof, my legs giggling by the tickle from the colors on the carpet.
Henri & Kokila swung these colors on 1st August 2012 and called this painting as Kikili House. Kikili means Hen in Singhalese; each room is named after different species of Hen: Plymouth Rock, Orpington, Wali Kakula, Faverolle and Silky Bantom. Each color on every art in these rooms opens up to greet you with a smile.
Detailing at every corner is so neatly done; there is no place where the colors are spilled outside the line. From the curtain holders to the lid that covers a mug, from a kitchen with quirky posters to an open balcony with a calm place to do yoga, from a living room where the colors dance to the seat out where the colors romances with light!
I love not man the less, but Nature more-Lord Byron
I saw this rugged jeep parked in the side, acting cranky to start. I was walking around checking out the mountains, glancing at the jeep every now & then. He was whispering something to me, I went closer & he said. Take a deep breath, sit up straight, and open up all your senses as you may not be able to do this when I take you for a ride. It was a 10 Kms off road drive through the forest on the rocks, passing the trees, mountains all around. Sunil parked the jeep at one corner and said the white dot up there, which is where we are going to. Right there, at that moment I was just telling to myself, days of research poured in finding a place like this was just more than the worth of my time.
Sunil hails from Bangalore/Bengaluru who found this property few years ago in Sakleshpur after a continuous research & traveling all across south India looking for a place like this. He is a certified River Rafter, Scuba Diver, Sky diver and what not; who has traveled to many places across the world and has immense knowledge of birds, trees and animals. 80 years ago, this place was always spotted by herd of tigers and hence the villagers named it Hulibana (Huli is Tiger and Bana is to meet); Sunil didn’t want the history to be changed and retained the same name; in the interest of travelers to understand it better he named it Hulivana.
Villas here are built by the rocks found in forest, mostly by the water stream. Sunil was explaining on how difficult it was to construct the villas by carving the stone to the right shape and have them fit in the right place. Room in the Villa opens up to two French windows on the side and in the front with the view of trees & water stream, wooden flooring and also a fire place inside. Wash room is one of its kinds with pebble flooring & electricity here is generated with hydro turbine during monsoon when there is more current in the water.
Dining hall overlooking the mountains, a place to also have some coffee & conversations.Heaven for foodies with different varieties of food in every meal I ate, was also served with traditional Malanad Kadubu with chutney and beautifully presented water melon.
Hammocks to read or to take a nap or to gaze at the trees or to just listen to water stream, just on the perfect place.
I had this quest to get into a forest alone, never thought I would have it conquered this soon; all thanks to Hulivana setup here. We took a short walk towards a water stream close by, Sunil mentioned about civet cats & I was all excited to see them. I stayed here alone for some time, finally spotted a civet cat for the first time in India (shy animal I must say, as soon as the cat spotted me; he ran away) I had the place to all myself, to sit, to meditate, to think, to dance, to sleep. Although there was fear of elephants passing by, I was just watching these unique creatures: Water Striders who walk on water continuously creating ripples in water.
Later in the evening, we went for a short trek around Ettina Bhuja (Back bone of a bull as the shape of the hill looks like it), I saw an olive green colored scorpion, and excited again as he was my first visitor too. Mesmerized by the view of 360 degrees of mountains everywhere which was topped with thick dense Kabinala forest, the slopes looked like slides connecting from one to other; I just wish I had the power to slide over from one mountain to other one. We sat down discussing the crazy elephant chase stories that has happened around these places and then spotted this bird called “Shikara” which would hover in one place against the wind for few seconds and then keep flying, hover and fly.
Breeze was churning up my bones, somewhere deep in the forest I could hear water rushing through, Sun was getting prepared to slide through those mountains, it was amazing to see the mix of color change on the sky & the hill top. We headed back where fire flies were throwing the light all around and moon was pouring the light from the top. Coffee & Popcorn was waiting for me in a moon lit sky, I have to mention about the hospitality here. Everything was very well organized; from the day email hit my inbox on the confirmation of availability to me reaching my next destination safely.
Bonfire setup!
Over coffee, Sunil was talking about this drink prepared by locals using Jaggery & a seasonal fruit; I just couldn’t deny tasting it. Later in the night by the bonfire, I took the first sip and I knew this would give some buzz around; we started sharing our travel stories. Sunil shared about his stories from seeing dead bodies floating in Rishikesh to his adventurous trek in Himalayas. With the little buzz in my head, all these stories were circulating around me virtually!
Early morning view through the window!
Woke up with the noise of water stream passing by the room which felt like a virtual massage running through my veins from head to toe, chill breeze sliding through the window which made me snuggle under the blanket gazing at those French windows looking at the trees.
Headed for a trek to Deepada Kallu (Deepa is lamp & Kallu is Stone: as the hill looks like a lamp) and Jenukallu gudda (Jenu is honey, kallu is stone & gudda is hill), seemed like there was a thunder storm coming up and the first step I took, there was a drop on my forehead. Every step I take I had to photograph every corner of this place, sun just didn’t want to come out and was playing around with the clouds and the hills. Looked like an ocean of endless mountains, bed of thick forest on them, I just wanted to float on that bed and snuggle under the rug of those clouds.
Clouds were on a war to pour rain,
I did feel a drop on my brain.
I looked at them & said, not today; pretty please?
They were too nice to me & got into peace.
Instead sun was peeping out shedding the ray,
it was such a memorable day.
Cold war seems to be over in blink of an eye,
People ask me why I travel, and this is why!
These are “Shola”, patches of trees that grow amidst the valleys surrounded by grasslands; they are found in only few specific areas in Western Ghats & nowhere else in the world! When it rains water accumulates in the valley which leads to the growth of these trees, these trees hold the moisture & remains green all through the year!
We then trekked upto Jenukallu gudda which is at the height of 4500 feet, first steeped mountain I have climbed on. Fear of heights to turn back, slippery stones, and grass to hold on which can even come out if you held it harder. Totally worth the entire struggle to be on top to see the view of cone shaped mountains, clouds covering them, sunlight spraying the sprinklers; 2 eyes were just not enough to enjoy this beauty & neither these words are enough to describe them.
Sipping a cup of coffee watching the hills around and the thickest of forest, my lungs were all cleansed with the fresh air that got in. I have said this before in my earlier post on Chikmagalur & will say it again, whenever I come to Western Ghats, I feel there is still lots of hope for nature to remain the way it is and this is what pulls me to come to this place again & again & again.
Deep in a rain forest they say, even deeper into the soul of a forest I would say!
Add this to your list of the place that you need to see before you die, you wouldn’t regret! Trust me.
Some facts about Animals & Insects Sunil shared:
Elephants: Post monsoon elephants go through some hormonal changes which lead to pressure in their brain that gets them disturbed to attack human beings. Mostly seen on male elephants but are common on female as well.
Fireflies: There are many kinds of fire flies which can be distinguished by the pattern of the way they shed the light. Say there were 2 kinds of fire flies with Bigger & Smaller patterns: Bigger one changes themselves to a smaller one and goes near smaller like mating and eats them as prey. Smaller one change themselves to bigger one, goes closer near bigger one & mate. Confused? Read again, Confused again? Keep reading. I had to ask 2 times to understand the process 😉
Cicadas: These insects that make noise in the night, gets all together of more than 100 which almost sounds like somebody is screaming, the noise is so loud they have a membrane in their ear that covers automatically. God’s a little too partial to them, isn’t it 😉
Honey Bee: Since honey bees sting is barbed, when the bee stings a mammal & pulled out it tears its abdomen & causes immediate death.
Water Strider: These unique creatures that walk on water gets attracted to ripples formed on water, when an insect falls and creates a ripple that is when these striders hunt them & eat.
When a Wild Flower spotted another Wild Flower.
*I was hosted by Hulivana; luck was all on my plate!
Yours Consciously Sneha 