There are always flowers for those who want to see them.-Henri Matisse
I took 15 days off from work before I officially resign, to work on my travel plans, to withdraw my insurance amount but I couldn’t stay for more than a day in a 4 sided wall! It is just a craving to be free from the monotonous schedule, got me into this: trekking in the forest in Sakleshpur, aroma of tea on one side & tasting coffee on the other in Chikmagalur and then here relishing the aroma of coffee flowers in Bird of Paradise, Coorg! Mr. Shivaprasad who owns this place purchased this land few years ago; being a florist and his love towards flowers made him to name this place after a flower. This flower looks a like species of Bird called “Bird of Paradise” and there goes the history behind the name.
This flower bloomed in the backyard of this small village called Kudumangalore in Kushalanagar and at the bank of Cauvery River. After 4 days of continuous traveling I needed a place to rejuvenate and this place had it all, from a river to a swimming pool & from an 80 years old cottage to a tree house. As I walk into this place it appeared like I was into a nature’s movie: birds chirping all around as the background music, hills as a backdrop, sun painting the sky as a colorful set, clouds forming patterns as artists.
Traditional meal: Akki Rotti & Pandi Curry for Dinner, Neer Dose with Honey, Chutney and Kadubu for Breakfast.
First things first, food here was so delicious I would save some and eat every few hours. Hospitality at its best, they were so kind to prepare whatever I asked for. I was so pampered as much as I would be pampered at home.
Tree houses are my weakness; I get pulled towards it in a jiffy. Mostly because they are always eco-friendly and it is so much of a unique experience to live with birds & squirrels. By far the biggest tree house I stayed in, Squirrels would squeak around to remind me that they live on the same tree too. I sit on the balcony in the tree house watching the sun behind clouds playing peekaboo, squirrels cuddling, pigeons hunting for food in paddy fields, cows moo at a distance.
Cauvery River flowing calmly with trees on both the sides, I stand here observing the silence of the water and my depth of Solitude amidst nature was only getting deeper and stronger. There was silence and so was peace, Solitude seemed so much like bliss! Water was flowing so freely not knowing where the destination is, I kept wondering is this the freedom I have been looking for too?
With the pinch of freedom that has already bit me for now, and with a little grin on my face; I went to chill in the pool that overlooked a big stretch of Bird of Paradise flowers, I lift my head and see flock of birds chirping & flying around, clouds forming unique patterns: I started naming each of them on the way they appeared: Octopus, Sea Horse. There was an eagle flying at a distance, Octopus was slowly sliding through while my good old friend Moon came to say hi!
My first time to see Coffee Flowers, they smell so delicious that just the aroma filled the craving I have for coffee. Honeybees were feeding themselves on these flowers by eating the nectar; those flowers were feeding my senses by spreading the aroma. Right opposite to these coffee plantations are the 80 years old bungalow and cottages, while the bungalow has been modernized a little, the cottages still holds the old charm.
Like I always mention my love towards old & antique pieces; this cottage appeared like a place where I just had to be. Red oxide seat outs in the portico, brick flooring, and tiled roofing; sure if they could speak I would have stayed here for days listening to the stories.
Guests by the cottage.I again went by the river to read my favorite book dipping my feet in the water as fish swam to nibble my feet.
Took an evening walk in the village as sun sets behind the hill, ladies sitting by the door sharing gossips, kids completing their homework in the courtyard, firewood transferred on bullock cart, temple lit up for the evening prayers! All these are definitely not new to me, as most of my holidays as a kid was spent in my village. But everything still seemed new and fresh, place was new, people were new, experience was new. This is what traveling solo feels like; even if there is something old it still feels new and this is why I chose this life of being on the road.
*I was hosted by Bird of Paradise, seemed like I had also packed “luck” along in my backpack!
Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.-Gary Snyder
The house at a distance is the Homestay I stayed in.
Every time I am in Chikmagalur, it has always taken me to surprise! There is a charm about this place that keeps pulling me towards it, and yet again the charm is only getting brighter with more glitters-credit goes to the place I stayed in. Megur Homestay is located around Kelagur Tea & Coffee plantations, one of the rarest views to see both tea and coffee plantations together & that holds the main reason why I chose to stay here. It is not just coffee in Chikmagalur, tea & some conversations happen too!
Pepper & Oranges in the backyard of the Homestay around coffee plantations
Mr. Sudhakara Gowda owns Megur Homestay, an agriculturist, one of the oldest and proud natives of Chikmagalur. The zeal he has when he explains every detail on the places excites anyone to sit & listen to him. We were having conversations on how coffee was first brought to Chikmagalur or rather India itself, I only knew that Baba Budan bought the coffee beans while coming from Haj; who was also the first to introduce coffee in India. Later it was British who got the beans from Africa & few other countries to India, something else which I didn’t know was Cardamom & Pepper is native of Western Ghats too.
Woke up to the smell of tea from the closest tea factory, sipping coffee overlooking the mountains; my brain was wondering whether to enjoy the signal from my taste buds or the nose! We then took a morning walk around Tea plantations, mist was just clearing off and showing us the way, my eyes turned green seeing acres of tea leaves, mountains at a distance, coffee plantations peeping on the side. My host was sharing the pain of finding the labor lately as most of the local crowd move to cities for jobs & easy money. However they have also been seeing lot of migrants from Bihar, Orissa & few other parts from North who come here looking for jobs.
Well the two World’s most favorite drinks are Coffee & Tea; I was still very surprised to see both the plantations right opposite to each other. The dense landscape on the right corner are the coffee plantations, those are the trees grown around the plantations as coffee needs more shade. During rainy season the shade will be minimized by cutting the branch of the trees for the rain water to enter the plantations. On the other hand tea needs more sunlight and hence less trees around them, even if there are trees it would be trees like silver oak that’s seen in the picture which doesn’t give too much of shade for the plantations. Due to less rainfall, lately sprinklers are used in the tea plantations. I will remember this every time I sip coffee/tea hereafter.
With food everything is my favorite and Akki Rotti stands at the top, authentic Malanad food. Yet again, every meal I had here was very delicious along with the Fresh Orange Juice from the backyard 😉
Gadaayi Kallu is on the left corner, the one in the front is Kudremukh.
15 Kms drive from the Homestay is Rani Jari: A tale that happened 250 years ago when Ballalarayana Durga was invaded, it is said that Rani (Queen) was trying to escape & jumped off this cliff, hence the name Rani Jari. Rani Jari has the view of a hamlet in South Canara; it was amazing to see those hamlets with paddy fields & rubber plantations standing at a point of Chikmagalur district to Mangalore District. Hill on the left is Ballalarayana Durga, ruins of the fort still exists on top of this hill.
There is an ancient temple of Kala Bairava Swamy temple built by Balalla Raya. This temple is completely built only by stones & also some amazing carvings on those stones. While we were driving to Rani Jari we saw muster of peacocks, unfortunately couldn’t capture a picture then. We stopped over at a small waterfall amidst tea plantations, where again muster of these beautiful creatures were chilling by the water.
I love not man the less, but Nature more-Lord Byron
I saw this rugged jeep parked in the side, acting cranky to start. I was walking around checking out the mountains, glancing at the jeep every now & then. He was whispering something to me, I went closer & he said. Take a deep breath, sit up straight, and open up all your senses as you may not be able to do this when I take you for a ride. It was a 10 Kms off road drive through the forest on the rocks, passing the trees, mountains all around. Sunil parked the jeep at one corner and said the white dot up there, which is where we are going to. Right there, at that moment I was just telling to myself, days of research poured in finding a place like this was just more than the worth of my time.
Sunil hails from Bangalore/Bengaluru who found this property few years ago in Sakleshpur after a continuous research & traveling all across south India looking for a place like this. He is a certified River Rafter, Scuba Diver, Sky diver and what not; who has traveled to many places across the world and has immense knowledge of birds, trees and animals. 80 years ago, this place was always spotted by herd of tigers and hence the villagers named it Hulibana (Huli is Tiger and Bana is to meet); Sunil didn’t want the history to be changed and retained the same name; in the interest of travelers to understand it better he named it Hulivana.
Villas here are built by the rocks found in forest, mostly by the water stream. Sunil was explaining on how difficult it was to construct the villas by carving the stone to the right shape and have them fit in the right place. Room in the Villa opens up to two French windows on the side and in the front with the view of trees & water stream, wooden flooring and also a fire place inside. Wash room is one of its kinds with pebble flooring & electricity here is generated with hydro turbine during monsoon when there is more current in the water.
Dining hall overlooking the mountains, a place to also have some coffee & conversations.Heaven for foodies with different varieties of food in every meal I ate, was also served with traditional Malanad Kadubu with chutney and beautifully presented water melon.
Hammocks to read or to take a nap or to gaze at the trees or to just listen to water stream, just on the perfect place.
I had this quest to get into a forest alone, never thought I would have it conquered this soon; all thanks to Hulivana setup here. We took a short walk towards a water stream close by, Sunil mentioned about civet cats & I was all excited to see them. I stayed here alone for some time, finally spotted a civet cat for the first time in India (shy animal I must say, as soon as the cat spotted me; he ran away) I had the place to all myself, to sit, to meditate, to think, to dance, to sleep. Although there was fear of elephants passing by, I was just watching these unique creatures: Water Striders who walk on water continuously creating ripples in water.
Later in the evening, we went for a short trek around Ettina Bhuja (Back bone of a bull as the shape of the hill looks like it), I saw an olive green colored scorpion, and excited again as he was my first visitor too. Mesmerized by the view of 360 degrees of mountains everywhere which was topped with thick dense Kabinala forest, the slopes looked like slides connecting from one to other; I just wish I had the power to slide over from one mountain to other one. We sat down discussing the crazy elephant chase stories that has happened around these places and then spotted this bird called “Shikara” which would hover in one place against the wind for few seconds and then keep flying, hover and fly.
Breeze was churning up my bones, somewhere deep in the forest I could hear water rushing through, Sun was getting prepared to slide through those mountains, it was amazing to see the mix of color change on the sky & the hill top. We headed back where fire flies were throwing the light all around and moon was pouring the light from the top. Coffee & Popcorn was waiting for me in a moon lit sky, I have to mention about the hospitality here. Everything was very well organized; from the day email hit my inbox on the confirmation of availability to me reaching my next destination safely.
Bonfire setup!
Over coffee, Sunil was talking about this drink prepared by locals using Jaggery & a seasonal fruit; I just couldn’t deny tasting it. Later in the night by the bonfire, I took the first sip and I knew this would give some buzz around; we started sharing our travel stories. Sunil shared about his stories from seeing dead bodies floating in Rishikesh to his adventurous trek in Himalayas. With the little buzz in my head, all these stories were circulating around me virtually!
Early morning view through the window!
Woke up with the noise of water stream passing by the room which felt like a virtual massage running through my veins from head to toe, chill breeze sliding through the window which made me snuggle under the blanket gazing at those French windows looking at the trees.
Headed for a trek to Deepada Kallu (Deepa is lamp & Kallu is Stone: as the hill looks like a lamp) and Jenukallu gudda (Jenu is honey, kallu is stone & gudda is hill), seemed like there was a thunder storm coming up and the first step I took, there was a drop on my forehead. Every step I take I had to photograph every corner of this place, sun just didn’t want to come out and was playing around with the clouds and the hills. Looked like an ocean of endless mountains, bed of thick forest on them, I just wanted to float on that bed and snuggle under the rug of those clouds.
Clouds were on a war to pour rain,
I did feel a drop on my brain.
I looked at them & said, not today; pretty please?
They were too nice to me & got into peace.
Instead sun was peeping out shedding the ray,
it was such a memorable day.
Cold war seems to be over in blink of an eye,
People ask me why I travel, and this is why!
These are “Shola”, patches of trees that grow amidst the valleys surrounded by grasslands; they are found in only few specific areas in Western Ghats & nowhere else in the world! When it rains water accumulates in the valley which leads to the growth of these trees, these trees hold the moisture & remains green all through the year!
We then trekked upto Jenukallu gudda which is at the height of 4500 feet, first steeped mountain I have climbed on. Fear of heights to turn back, slippery stones, and grass to hold on which can even come out if you held it harder. Totally worth the entire struggle to be on top to see the view of cone shaped mountains, clouds covering them, sunlight spraying the sprinklers; 2 eyes were just not enough to enjoy this beauty & neither these words are enough to describe them.
Sipping a cup of coffee watching the hills around and the thickest of forest, my lungs were all cleansed with the fresh air that got in. I have said this before in my earlier post on Chikmagalur & will say it again, whenever I come to Western Ghats, I feel there is still lots of hope for nature to remain the way it is and this is what pulls me to come to this place again & again & again.
Deep in a rain forest they say, even deeper into the soul of a forest I would say!
Add this to your list of the place that you need to see before you die, you wouldn’t regret! Trust me.
Some facts about Animals & Insects Sunil shared:
Elephants: Post monsoon elephants go through some hormonal changes which lead to pressure in their brain that gets them disturbed to attack human beings. Mostly seen on male elephants but are common on female as well.
Fireflies: There are many kinds of fire flies which can be distinguished by the pattern of the way they shed the light. Say there were 2 kinds of fire flies with Bigger & Smaller patterns: Bigger one changes themselves to a smaller one and goes near smaller like mating and eats them as prey. Smaller one change themselves to bigger one, goes closer near bigger one & mate. Confused? Read again, Confused again? Keep reading. I had to ask 2 times to understand the process 😉
Cicadas: These insects that make noise in the night, gets all together of more than 100 which almost sounds like somebody is screaming, the noise is so loud they have a membrane in their ear that covers automatically. God’s a little too partial to them, isn’t it 😉
Honey Bee: Since honey bees sting is barbed, when the bee stings a mammal & pulled out it tears its abdomen & causes immediate death.
Water Strider: These unique creatures that walk on water gets attracted to ripples formed on water, when an insect falls and creates a ripple that is when these striders hunt them & eat.
When a Wild Flower spotted another Wild Flower.
*I was hosted by Hulivana; luck was all on my plate!
In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks-John Muir
Having a mind that always wanders, itchy feet which cannot stay in one place; Kozhikode/Calicut was just not enough so I had decided to go to Wayanad after my friend’s engagement. I have been to Wayanad a few years ago and I know there would be still a lot more than I wouldn’t have explored.
When I was researching about Kozhikode/Calicut, Tusharagiri Falls caught my attention as there were 3 waterfalls on the same trek. It was on the same route that we were driving in from Kozhikode/Calicut to Wayanad and I couldn’t say no. As we were driving to falls, I saw these tall trees with a cup-tied at the bottom. I asked my driver and he said those are rubber plantations, it was my first time to see them. Facts of Rubber Plantation in Kerala: The first rubber plantation in India was set up in 1895 in Kerala, Kerala is still the highest producer of natural rubber in India, rubber is made out of the liquid(latex) obtained from these rubber trees. Each of these trees is tied with a cup at the bottom where the latex is stored.
The first waterfall is called Eerattumukku, the Second one is called Mazhavilchattam and the Third one is Thumbithullum Para. Although there was hardly any water in all these 3 falls and was mostly filled by locals, the trek through the forest was a memorable one. Absolute silence among the trees, birds chirping here and there, noise of water sliding through this silence, staircase formed through the roots of the trees; my itchy feet was finally dancing with joy.
The journey from Kozhikode/Calicut to Wayanad was one beautiful road opening up to mountains on both the ends, watching the sunset on the move, sliding the window pane to get some fresh air which I always crave for and now my mind that wanders was finally dancing with joy.
I stayed in Coffea Aroma along with 2 of my friends; the name of this place was a catch as I always thought Wayanad has only tea. 5 Kms drive from the main road in the Jeep brings you to this unique place located amidst coffee plantations. As soon as we entered, we were greeted with the music of water passing around, coffee plantations surrounding us, hills at a distance waving at us, was a soothing experience staying here. As most of the major waterfall is usually filled with locals/tourists, it’s a blessing to have a private waterfall in here.
About 5 Kms from here is the Chembra peak, when I decided to trek here all I heard was it takes about 3-4 hours (2.5 kms one side) to climb up which was even more exciting. It is mandatory to take a guide along while you go here for trekking and for my luck I found a guide who could speak Kannada. Have been to Kerala many times earlier and this is the first time ever to find someone who can speak Kannada so fluently, thanks, Chandan! This is why I like traveling; never know what is in store for you. Every step you take is an adventure, every moment is filled with surprises, and every decision brings you happiness.
Chandan is a BA student who is working as a part-timer guide during his holidays and also a native who lives in a village around Chembra Peak. We were climbing up through the forest having conversations about studies, wild animals, and my blog. Sunlight would prick eyes to slow down and I wouldn’t want to give up reaching the peak, we reached in 50 minutes and Chandan was all happy that he could go home soon.
Standing up in this peak where even sky seems reachable, mountains are just a piece of cake, the breeze was the icing and the naturally formed heart-shaped lake on the hill was the cherry. I sat on a rock watching the hills, opened my book to write and the flow just went by; solitude at its best while nature was in rest.
I am not afraid of the darkness. Real death is preferable to a life without living.- Vasco Da Gama
Vasco Da Gama was the first to discover the route to India through ocean landing in Calicut on 20th May 1498. This was the line I remember studying in school and the only thing I knew about Calicut, while I was talking to my colleague about going to Calicut he mentioned about Vasco Da Gama. I instantly went back to my school days, history was one of the subjects that I never liked much, but I still remember studying about Vasco Da Gama and I was all excited to know more about him. I have admired him and would wonder the struggle he had to go through to find the route through ocean back in 1498.
Although traveling to any city doesn’t excite me much, I had to land here for one my friend’s engagement. Finally with plenty of research, found about this village called Elathur which is about 10 Kms from Calicut. There is a canal that runs through this village; I spoke to few locals there who live on the income that comes from fishing.
About 5 Kms from here is the Kappad beach where Vasco Da Gama landed, there is an ancient temple which is supposed to be older before Vasco Da Gama landed here. As per the locals, it is 800 years old, I was standing here and gazing at the beach. I then closely observed that there is a heart-shaped formation on the sand. Was the nature telling me that they love me too?
For my next long travel, I have been thinking to travel only through the ocean. Never had I thought, Vasco Da Gama would be another inspiration. If he could do it 600 years ago why can’t I do it now? This is what travel teaches you, you would never know where and whose story would inspire you to keep going, keep achieving, and keep inspiring.
I had read somewhere that there is a monument showcasing Vasco Da Gama’s discovery, I should admit that I was a little disappointed with this monument which almost went unseen even after passing twice on the same road unless someone pointed to me that was the monument. If you are excited and curious to know about this monument too, don’t be. Here it is!
A little disappointment, more inspiration, more excitement; with all the mixed feelings in the brain I headed towards Beypore Fort, another beach closer to the city has two piers built till the middle of the ocean. The two old piers opening arms till mid of the ocean, waves coming over with the rush to hug them, the sun getting a little jealous watching their romance! I need not say more, no wonder Beypore Fort is one of the romantic getaways!
Sun had already set by the time I reached there and had left the traces in the sky that he was there and had just left. There were too many people around me and I was still all alone connecting to the waves, sensing the vibration in my nerves, eyes opening up widely to gaze at the brightly lit sky. I guess that’s the difference between nature and people, nature would always connect with you: however you are, wherever you are, whatever you are.
After such relishing meal filling my eyes with beach and sunset, I had to close it with a dessert and went to the SM Street to taste the very famous Kozhikode Halwa available in different colors/flavors.
Yours Consciously Sneha 