Being able to embrace contradictions is a sign of intelligence. Or insanity. – Richard Kadrey
26th February 2019, a reminder popped up on my Facebook feed about the blog post I wrote last year. Just then I realized it is my 3rd year anniversary of leaving my comfortable corporate job. Every year I have celebrated this day, but this year I forgot. Forgot for good? Maybe! It seems like a sign that I have detached from the strings.
How is this life been away from the city, family, and friends? Everyone asks-I cringe a little and smile, saying it’s okay. No, that’s not the answer they expected and that’s not the answer I expected either. I was very hopeful when I left the job that I will be happier than I was before, more satisfied with life than I was before, more sorted with relationships than I was before.
But life had other plans; I have spoken about this in a long post before so I am not getting there again. If you would like to read, here it is! Silence in the air.
Here is a snippet of these 3 years, Bright and Dark side of this life.
Mountain Life
After I left the corporate job and traveled a bit, I started working in the mountains. I lasted for 2 and a half months as it got hectic than I ever thought. In fact, I had more time in a corporate job to write than I had here. My blog was rotting and I hadn’t written in months, one day I went to the owner and said I would like to quit as I am unable to find time for writing.
Now again, I am with mountains. It’s been a year, it’s the same again; after I came here I stopped writing again but I indulged myself in many of my other favorite likings: dancing and sketching. There was a constant unexplained void though, that I am unable to find time for writing.
Bright Side
I am not in a polluted city cramped up in the AC ducts, working on some meaningless excel files. I work with the mountains breathing fresh air and still work on excel files though but the ones filled with meaning (I mean it).
Every morning I wake up to a different view, sometimes to the sun shining right through the window and sometimes to the dark clouds and sometimes to heavy wind and sometimes to rains.
On bad days/stressful days, on the days when I feel if I made the right decision of moving to mountains-all I have to do is make a coffee or hot chocolate and stare at mountains. That answers my doubt, for that day.
Dark Side
Out of many things I disliked in a corporate job, gossiping, biased decisions by peers/seniors was the most difficult situations to handle. With or without knowledge, we often get into this loop of “gossips”. After I left the job, I assumed that I will never get into this Black Hole (Gossips) again. I was wrong, I had forgotten that I will be dealing with humans wherever I go, be it mountains or beach or road or corporate job. It took me a lot of time to accept that this “Black Hole” situation is normal and it is a common trait that humans carry. (As I write this, I am feeling uncomfortable as I have not yet found the answer to why humans (including me) do this, existential questions you see)
There are always contradictions with everything we do, there is always a bright and dark side with everything we do. We just got to accept which dark side is more comfortable to be with and which dark side leads to the brighter path.
Rough roads are always memorable, be it the ride or the destination; they are beautiful. Mandaram Nuwara is one such place that took tremendous efforts to be reached, efforts in the form of research and also to find the commute. A friend mentioned about this village, he said its called a Misty City as it is always covered by Mist. I would like to call it as a Mysterious Village-here is why. I started my research and was mesmerized with the pictures of this Mysterious village, but there were hardly any details on how to reach there. I figured out its closer to Kandy, so decided to reach Kandy first & then flow towards this eye candy. I asked few locals, there was no soul aware of this village. The more it was hard to find out, the more I wanted to go. Finally with some help, I found a blog post that had few details of locals who had visited this village couple of years ago. I couldn’t find any details about the commute so I shut my laptop to hit the road. Perhaps, there are answers on the road!
A traveler friend joined along, we began our hunt towards this mysterious village. We went to Kandy bus stand and figured out the direct bus will leave only in the noon. We did not have much time so decided to go to a nearby town to the village called Padiyapelalla, conductor in the bus was trying to build a conversation, I told him we need to go to Mandaram Nuwara, asking him if there is a bus from Padiyapelalla. He said this bus goes to Mandaram Nuwara, I was literally on Cloud 9; never imagined that road can fulfill your wish so easily. Apparently that was the last bus leaving to Mandaram Nuwara from Padiyapelalla.
The houses were placed like cubes amidst the paddy fields, we were closer to Mandaram Nuwara. This was the first sight we had when we entered the village, the house in the corner was the perfect eye candy. Every house here opens up to a view like this. We were welcomed with loud music, huge speakers were placed on the road, people chilling & playing carom, old men having a chat by the verandah, kids had just finished their school, women shared a startled look at us with a graceful smile. Smile-seems like a common jewelry worn by everyone in this village.
We started to walk around the village listening to Sinhalese music, every few steps we take; we stop to see the view staring at the never ending horizon with a huge floor of paddy fields. I kept thinking how lucky these people are to wake up to such a blissful view. The mountains surrounding the village is called Pidurutalagala (Mount Pedro) which is also the tallest mountain in Sri Lanka. We kept walking and stopped over a house for water, a girl came out & asked where was I from, I said India. She immediately said, “Kohli batting, very good; I like it”. I laughed and said yes, he is good!
The Kohli Girl 😉By the stream in the village 🙂
The kids were all around us, we had a small “body language chat” with them. Like every journey should have an end, this short journey came closer to an end as well. The bus driver & conductor was waiting for almost an hour for us to return to drop us to the town as there were no bus leaving that evening. Both the driver & conductor took us in their Tuk Tuk and showed us a beautiful waterfall, a secret water fall they said! They later dropped us to a nearby town and made sure we got into the right bus to reach Kandy!
Somewhere on the road!
So, the rough roads journey turned out to be one of the most beautiful & memorable events in my life!
I crossed from one mountain to another mountain, from rain forest to evergreen forest, from one form of solitude to another. At the elevation of 3000 ft as I took my first step on the ground where rain had just danced & the clouds were slowly clearing up, I was welcomed to Artist Cottage. Vipula Perera, a textile engineer by profession & drawing has always been his hobby since he was a kid. After spending years in Japan & USA, he returned to Sri Lanka to spend time in his home country after retirement. Also got influenced by the art form both in Japan & USA, Vipula continued his passion towards drawing & now has developed his niche in line drawings.
While looking for a place to build a studio & practice his drawings somewhere close to nature, he found this beautiful piece of land in Beragala Mountains, Haputale. Landscape architecture has also been his hobby where he has created some brilliant places in Sri Lanka & California. This place seemed like an ideal place to build a studio & a getaway retreat; he also came up with an idea to invite artists from all across the world to work or even conduct workshops that would benefit each other as artists. That’s how the two beautiful cottages came up with the view of mountains & the weather here stays cold all through the year 🙂
It rained most of the days that I stayed here, I tried to be indoors which is unlikely me but the cottages & the view from those French windows were just more than beautiful to just let them go. The view from the cottage kept kindling me to continue with drawing that I had stopped long ago, cannot even remember when! Oh yes, I did start drawing again.
Yet another place that served delicious Srilankan food cooked by a local family entangled me to stay even more in one place; eat & stare at the mountains.
One of the days, when the clouds cleared up I decided to walk up the hill & ended up near a Tamil school. We call it Champa & the English name is Plumeria, the place was filled with the fragrance of this flower, on the ground, on the tree & decorated everywhere. This definitely looked like a kid’s art; they were peeping from their classroom & finally came out to talk to me. I conversed with them in Tamil & also with their teacher and then they posed for a picture. I tried to visit those kids until I was there, shared some giggles, spoke to their parents & also shared some laughter with their grandparents.
Those mountains, that cloud, this tree, hey butterfly, hello bird, they were all to myself; this is how I would converse with them. After some extensive traveling & socializing, I had to rejuvenate myself being in solitude around these beautiful creatures. Chugging up in the blanket, sometimes I would draw, read & write, sometimes sit still & let my brain fight with all the thoughts that’s been bothering me, if I don’t find a solution then I would start staring at the window on how clouds come together to let the rain dance, feeling the soft sway of breeze through my hair, looking at few birds screech while flying through the rain, and when the rain stops dancing the clouds slowly clear up to show how beautiful the sky is.
What if all these beautiful creatures are having a conversation to create this beautiful pattern, What if the mountains & trees send these clouds to pass messages on to the flip side, What if the rain & beautiful sky were just to celebrate once the messages have been reached 🙂
*I was hosted by Artist Cottage, would you like to have a conversation with nature too? Then pop in soon!
Traveling: It leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller-Ibn Battuta
This pretty city Galle situated by the shores of Indian Ocean at the southern most part of Sri Lanka still holds the charm of European styled buildings, cobbled stoned roads, red tiled roofs, flowered pots in the veranda & a fort built by Dutch takes you back to centuries of years when Portuguese & Dutch had stepped to Sri Lanka in 16th & 17th century.
Things to do in Galle
Although there isn’t anything specific or a huge list to be covered, a walk in the fort in itself is on the topmost things to do. Galle has been so far the quietest city I have been to in Sri Lanka, most of the old buildings have now been converted to either cafes or restaurants or a fancy tourist shop. There are high chances to be lost while walking around the fort as most of the buildings look similar, but getting lost will always take you to something better 🙂
I got lost once & this is where I ended up with the colorful Tuk Tuk’s lined up & colorful flowers hanging from the pots looked like they were made for each other.
The Old Dutch Hospital which was built by Dutch as a hospital back then is now used for dining & shopping. Totally worth a visit if you are a foodie & a shopaholic like me 😉
There is a spectacular view of the cricket stadium from the fort, suppose to be one of the most beautiful stadiums in the world.
I also relished walking at the edge of the fort, watching the couples romancing under the umbrellas & hearing the silent waves kiss the shore. Water was as clear as the crystal & as blue as the sky, I sat here staring at the ocean for quite a while listening to all the life lessons they have been teaching.
Waves roar towards the shore,
saying be wild & free.
Wind whispers in my ears,
saying be wild & free.
Sun shines over my spine,
saying be wild & free.
Things to do in Unawatuna
Unawatuna is in the suburbs of Galle, a major tourist spot for its well known beach. I first landed at this sacred hill Rumasalla in Unawatuna where every plant/tree has some medicinal value. Tales of Ramayana flies around every part of this hill as this was one of the broken part fallen when Lord Hanumantha was carrying the Sanjeevani hill from India.
Japanese Peace Pagoda is located at a beautiful spot which has the views of the ocean, it is meant to shred Peace & the oceans across pours more shine to stay peaceful! At the entrance, there is also a statue of Lord Hanumantha as the tale in Rumasalla runs around him.
Jungle beach, this beach reminded me of Leonardo’s movie “The Beach”, from the walk to the beach till I reached the shore; the stills of the movie kept running in my head. It was my first time ever to walk alone in a secluded place & it was totally worth it. I witnessed one of the best sunsets as I was walking back from the beach.
Unawatuna beach is a little too crowded for me, although there are many restaurants if you would like to just go grab a beer & watch the ocean. That’s what I did 😉
Where to stay
Kikili House
Located in Galle & few minutes’ walk away from the fort; It’s a painting by itself, every step you take is filled with colors that tickles all over your body from head to toe, their quirky kitchen and the food served is a treat to your eyes and the stomach. Read the full post here, to stay at Kikili House they can be contacted through their website.
Silva Tree House
Located between Galle & Unawatuna on the sacred hill Rumasalla, a glass house with the view of forest and my favorite is their bathroom with the view of ocean & forest J 15 minutes Tuk Tuk ride from Galle & a few minutes’ walk to Japanese Peace Pagoda, Jungle beach and Unawatuna beach. Read the full post here, to stay at Silva Tree House they can be contacted through Airbnb.
Where to eat
There are plenty of options to eat in the Galle Fort & Dutch Hospital; I ate this yummy brinjal meal served on a leaf at “A minute by Tuk Tuk” & a drink at the “Hammock Café & Pub”. Hammock Café & Pub as the name says, where you swing on a hammock & chill with a drink.
Otherwise, for a cheaper option, there are lots of street foods available at every corner of the road with yummy rolls, vade’s & kothu parathas.
How to reach
Sri Lankan railways are very well connected to all the major cities/towns; there are trains from Negombo/Colombo to Galle. This whole journey is on the coastal route, it feels like train literally is floating on the ocean. Check this link to track the schedule of the trains in Sri Lanka.
If you do not wish to wait for a train, there are plenty of buses as well from Negombo/Colombo to Galle.
Bikes for rent are available too in most of the areas if you would like to travel around by yourself.
The principles of true art is not to portray, but to evoke – Jerzy Kosinski
Dating back to thousands of years, India holds rich heritage in many art forms. One of them is Dhokra, which is being practiced for more than 4,000 years originated in West Bengal and now is practiced in most of the regions in India.
As much as most of our art forms are still practiced but hasn’t been recognized & rewarded as they deserve to be, they are slowly becoming extinct. Dhokra which is also widely practiced in Gadchiroli faced a major threat of naxalites that affected the adivasi craftsmen’s work to pursue it effectively.
Under an old Ficus tree an idea was seeded in 2008, which has now grown up to be Devrai Art Village an NGO in Panchgani that has created a platform for these craftsmen by nurturing their art work. Ms. Mandakini Mathur, founder of Devrai Art Village partnered with Mr. Suresh Pangati who is a craftsman by himself forming a creative set of team of adivasi craftsmen from Gadchiroli & Chhattisgarh.
Panchgani in Satara District in Maharashtra which is located on the Sahyadri mountain ranges is very well known for table land which is also the second longest mountain plateau in Asia and their strawberry farms. Stunning views of small hamlets in the alley, lush green paddy fields, Karvi flowers just starting to bloom and the still green mountains surrounding the whole town adds like glitters to the beauty of Panchgani.
Speaking about Dhokra, it is an art form that uses lost wax casting where a metal (Brass, Silver, Gold, etc) sculpture is formed using a mould which either can be made of wax or clay. I spent most of my time in Devrai by interacting with artists watching them manoeuvre their hands to form beautiful sculptures under the old Ficus tree.
Once in 15/20 days casting process takes place and I was lucky to see this as it was in progress on the day I reached. Shankar Nag, one of the artists explains how casting takes place. Every sculpture is shielded by mud that forms a mould and heated up for about 3-4 hours, at the same time brass is boiled for about 3-4 hours. Once the mould is heated, brass is poured and allowed to cool for a while before it’s broken & taken to the next process. As the process in itself was such a beauty to watch, I was also drawn to just stare at the fire & the boiling brass.
Once the mould is broken, the next step involves cleaning & providing the final touch.The sculpture is heated again to dip in Potassium Permanganate & the last step is Buffing! Entire process would at least take about 2 weeks to get the final product.
Rock Dhokra is a new feather added to the traditional Dhokra art, one of its kinds which were invented at Devrai. I spent some time with Suresh to understand the process of Rock Dhokra. Stones are picked by the river, based on the shape of the stone artists decide on what sculpture can be formed. Artists design the shape around the stone using bee wax; it is then moulded with mud (brought from Gadchiroli) and heated. Suresh says, there were many challenges when they started Rock Dhokra as the brass needs to be heated at the right temperature. A slight variation in the temperature can also cause damage to the sculpture which adds to more work on the next process.
This piece was made using a wooden bark!
Devrai Art Village also offers workshops for who is interested in learning the art form, internships for the art & design students, they also have apprentice from the adivasi community who learn the art form to make their living.
Let Devrai grow as mighty as a tree along with many other art forming branches leading to fruitful artists! If you would like to buy their art or contribute to Devrai please visit their Facebook page or check out their website.
Devrai Art Gallery!
2 years ago Mathur’s family extended their house with an intention to form a likeminded community by hosting creative set of people like artists, writers, designers, etc. Different species of trees, ponds filled with lilies, birds singing all day, beautifully built house with the view of valley, gallery displaying their art work, super friendly dogs & a warm family with creative minds makes your visit more peaceful & comfortable. If you would like to stay at Devrai, you can find them at Airbnb.
That was my view, reading & writing spot for 2 days at Devrai Art Village.
If you are in Panchgani in September, make sure to be part of Karvi Festival which is an Art festival in harmony with Music & Nature. They have live bands performing in a cave & nature trails organized witnessing Karvi flowers that bloom once in 8 years.
If you slow things down, you notice things you had not seen before – Robert Wilson
Dusk had kicked in; I was in Deniyaya bus stand where even the street lights were off. I heard a voice…it was Ranjith, Tuk Tuk driver who had come to pick me up. A relief, but was still not sure if I got into the right Tuk Tuk. He stopped at a point and asked me to get off, it was as dark as black. I could only hear water gushing; I flashed my torch & saw few trees. We had to cross the river with my two big bags to enter the forest. After 20 minutes of hike, I finally saw a light. We entered the gate & he introduced me to Katrina, Hi I said & then took a deep breath that I am safe, sound & alive! Sigh!
Next morning I woke up to the bright sun rays kicking through the window, glared quietly to a view of dense forest, Sinharaja Forest. I knew I was going to stay here for long, when I saw those trees & heard birds chirping, I was sure that I will. Traveling is an experience, once you stay longer in any place all these experiences grows into you spreading around like branches and keeps you grounded like roots. Those experiences are like nutrients that keep you enriched which moulds to be a better person.
Sam & Karina who quit their jobs & came here few years ago to setup their dream home, they also witnessed deforestation at the same time. They have planted around 800 + tress growing their own vegetables & fruits practicing sustainable living, using only solar power: they call it as Natural Mystic Sanctuary. It is heart wrenching to hear the trees that have been cut & was replaced by tea plantations. As most of the forest, Sinharaja Forest is also under threat; they are doing their bit to contribute to the nature.
The farthest white dot seen is Natural Mystic Sanctuary.Open natural shower at their house!
One of the late evenings, Katrina took us for a hike in the forest which is now slowly converting to tea plantations; we watched the sunset through the shimmering leaves & headed back. This is what happens when the need is replaced with greed 😦
My reading spot by the river, also some work for the fish to nibble on my feet.
I have always found coolest places to do yoga and this was one of the best where a place was setup under an old oak tree where apparently a big cobra lives in, the thought of it was even more fun to practice yoga 😉
As curious as always, I had to see the local market where farmers sell their crops, and we all headed to shop. This market was covered by netted clothes as roof which seemed like a colorful path when the sun rays were passing through the net.
Wood fire pizza we made on one of the rainy day!
Renuka from a nearby village comes here to cook, one day she came to me with a plate of Vade and she said India. She meant this is from India; I giggled, nodding yes and she says she watches all cookery shows from India and learns lot of recipes. Next day, a mid aged man says Vanakkam (greeting a person in Tamil), he said he is Renuka’s uncle. She had told him that I am from India; he invited us home sharing his stories that he was brought up here; his older brother (Renuka’s father) speaks better Tamil than him. He also mentioned that many years ago, most of the property in Deniyaya was owned by Chettiyar’s: one of the renowned Tamil families. It rained all day and we couldn’t go to their house, next day Renuka seemed upset that they were all waiting for us with pan cakes, tea and tender coconut 😦
We promised to go with her the same day, Jabba also accompanied us. It was raining all through our walk, locals taking a dip in the water, washing clothes, glittering paddy fields, tall palm trees, cows grazing, tired trees with scorching heat looked all cheered up soaking in the rain!
She lives in a nearby village called Batandura, houses here are painted with bright colors which looks like a painting by itself. We were served with super delicious tea & I was conversing with her father in Tamil. He said his father moved to Sri Lanka many years ago and they later got adapted to Sinhalese culture. Renuka’s husband works in a tea factory which was shut recently as they did not have work due to less rain, Renuka works as a cook to manage the family. Her kids got dressed up in their new clothes & shoes that were purchased for their New Year and we all stood for a group photo! Say cheese!
Why do we travel? To meet such wonderful people and for such experiences that keeps you enriched & also moulds to be a better person.
Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.-Gary Snyder
The house at a distance is the Homestay I stayed in.
Every time I am in Chikmagalur, it has always taken me to surprise! There is a charm about this place that keeps pulling me towards it, and yet again the charm is only getting brighter with more glitters-credit goes to the place I stayed in. Megur Homestay is located around Kelagur Tea & Coffee plantations, one of the rarest views to see both tea and coffee plantations together & that holds the main reason why I chose to stay here. It is not just coffee in Chikmagalur, tea & some conversations happen too!
Pepper & Oranges in the backyard of the Homestay around coffee plantations
Mr. Sudhakara Gowda owns Megur Homestay, an agriculturist, one of the oldest and proud natives of Chikmagalur. The zeal he has when he explains every detail on the places excites anyone to sit & listen to him. We were having conversations on how coffee was first brought to Chikmagalur or rather India itself, I only knew that Baba Budan bought the coffee beans while coming from Haj; who was also the first to introduce coffee in India. Later it was British who got the beans from Africa & few other countries to India, something else which I didn’t know was Cardamom & Pepper is native of Western Ghats too.
Woke up to the smell of tea from the closest tea factory, sipping coffee overlooking the mountains; my brain was wondering whether to enjoy the signal from my taste buds or the nose! We then took a morning walk around Tea plantations, mist was just clearing off and showing us the way, my eyes turned green seeing acres of tea leaves, mountains at a distance, coffee plantations peeping on the side. My host was sharing the pain of finding the labor lately as most of the local crowd move to cities for jobs & easy money. However they have also been seeing lot of migrants from Bihar, Orissa & few other parts from North who come here looking for jobs.
Well the two World’s most favorite drinks are Coffee & Tea; I was still very surprised to see both the plantations right opposite to each other. The dense landscape on the right corner are the coffee plantations, those are the trees grown around the plantations as coffee needs more shade. During rainy season the shade will be minimized by cutting the branch of the trees for the rain water to enter the plantations. On the other hand tea needs more sunlight and hence less trees around them, even if there are trees it would be trees like silver oak that’s seen in the picture which doesn’t give too much of shade for the plantations. Due to less rainfall, lately sprinklers are used in the tea plantations. I will remember this every time I sip coffee/tea hereafter.
With food everything is my favorite and Akki Rotti stands at the top, authentic Malanad food. Yet again, every meal I had here was very delicious along with the Fresh Orange Juice from the backyard 😉
Gadaayi Kallu is on the left corner, the one in the front is Kudremukh.
15 Kms drive from the Homestay is Rani Jari: A tale that happened 250 years ago when Ballalarayana Durga was invaded, it is said that Rani (Queen) was trying to escape & jumped off this cliff, hence the name Rani Jari. Rani Jari has the view of a hamlet in South Canara; it was amazing to see those hamlets with paddy fields & rubber plantations standing at a point of Chikmagalur district to Mangalore District. Hill on the left is Ballalarayana Durga, ruins of the fort still exists on top of this hill.
There is an ancient temple of Kala Bairava Swamy temple built by Balalla Raya. This temple is completely built only by stones & also some amazing carvings on those stones. While we were driving to Rani Jari we saw muster of peacocks, unfortunately couldn’t capture a picture then. We stopped over at a small waterfall amidst tea plantations, where again muster of these beautiful creatures were chilling by the water.
I love not man the less, but Nature more-Lord Byron
I saw this rugged jeep parked in the side, acting cranky to start. I was walking around checking out the mountains, glancing at the jeep every now & then. He was whispering something to me, I went closer & he said. Take a deep breath, sit up straight, and open up all your senses as you may not be able to do this when I take you for a ride. It was a 10 Kms off road drive through the forest on the rocks, passing the trees, mountains all around. Sunil parked the jeep at one corner and said the white dot up there, which is where we are going to. Right there, at that moment I was just telling to myself, days of research poured in finding a place like this was just more than the worth of my time.
Sunil hails from Bangalore/Bengaluru who found this property few years ago in Sakleshpur after a continuous research & traveling all across south India looking for a place like this. He is a certified River Rafter, Scuba Diver, Sky diver and what not; who has traveled to many places across the world and has immense knowledge of birds, trees and animals. 80 years ago, this place was always spotted by herd of tigers and hence the villagers named it Hulibana (Huli is Tiger and Bana is to meet); Sunil didn’t want the history to be changed and retained the same name; in the interest of travelers to understand it better he named it Hulivana.
Villas here are built by the rocks found in forest, mostly by the water stream. Sunil was explaining on how difficult it was to construct the villas by carving the stone to the right shape and have them fit in the right place. Room in the Villa opens up to two French windows on the side and in the front with the view of trees & water stream, wooden flooring and also a fire place inside. Wash room is one of its kinds with pebble flooring & electricity here is generated with hydro turbine during monsoon when there is more current in the water.
Dining hall overlooking the mountains, a place to also have some coffee & conversations.Heaven for foodies with different varieties of food in every meal I ate, was also served with traditional Malanad Kadubu with chutney and beautifully presented water melon.
Hammocks to read or to take a nap or to gaze at the trees or to just listen to water stream, just on the perfect place.
I had this quest to get into a forest alone, never thought I would have it conquered this soon; all thanks to Hulivana setup here. We took a short walk towards a water stream close by, Sunil mentioned about civet cats & I was all excited to see them. I stayed here alone for some time, finally spotted a civet cat for the first time in India (shy animal I must say, as soon as the cat spotted me; he ran away) I had the place to all myself, to sit, to meditate, to think, to dance, to sleep. Although there was fear of elephants passing by, I was just watching these unique creatures: Water Striders who walk on water continuously creating ripples in water.
Later in the evening, we went for a short trek around Ettina Bhuja (Back bone of a bull as the shape of the hill looks like it), I saw an olive green colored scorpion, and excited again as he was my first visitor too. Mesmerized by the view of 360 degrees of mountains everywhere which was topped with thick dense Kabinala forest, the slopes looked like slides connecting from one to other; I just wish I had the power to slide over from one mountain to other one. We sat down discussing the crazy elephant chase stories that has happened around these places and then spotted this bird called “Shikara” which would hover in one place against the wind for few seconds and then keep flying, hover and fly.
Breeze was churning up my bones, somewhere deep in the forest I could hear water rushing through, Sun was getting prepared to slide through those mountains, it was amazing to see the mix of color change on the sky & the hill top. We headed back where fire flies were throwing the light all around and moon was pouring the light from the top. Coffee & Popcorn was waiting for me in a moon lit sky, I have to mention about the hospitality here. Everything was very well organized; from the day email hit my inbox on the confirmation of availability to me reaching my next destination safely.
Bonfire setup!
Over coffee, Sunil was talking about this drink prepared by locals using Jaggery & a seasonal fruit; I just couldn’t deny tasting it. Later in the night by the bonfire, I took the first sip and I knew this would give some buzz around; we started sharing our travel stories. Sunil shared about his stories from seeing dead bodies floating in Rishikesh to his adventurous trek in Himalayas. With the little buzz in my head, all these stories were circulating around me virtually!
Early morning view through the window!
Woke up with the noise of water stream passing by the room which felt like a virtual massage running through my veins from head to toe, chill breeze sliding through the window which made me snuggle under the blanket gazing at those French windows looking at the trees.
Headed for a trek to Deepada Kallu (Deepa is lamp & Kallu is Stone: as the hill looks like a lamp) and Jenukallu gudda (Jenu is honey, kallu is stone & gudda is hill), seemed like there was a thunder storm coming up and the first step I took, there was a drop on my forehead. Every step I take I had to photograph every corner of this place, sun just didn’t want to come out and was playing around with the clouds and the hills. Looked like an ocean of endless mountains, bed of thick forest on them, I just wanted to float on that bed and snuggle under the rug of those clouds.
Clouds were on a war to pour rain,
I did feel a drop on my brain.
I looked at them & said, not today; pretty please?
They were too nice to me & got into peace.
Instead sun was peeping out shedding the ray,
it was such a memorable day.
Cold war seems to be over in blink of an eye,
People ask me why I travel, and this is why!
These are “Shola”, patches of trees that grow amidst the valleys surrounded by grasslands; they are found in only few specific areas in Western Ghats & nowhere else in the world! When it rains water accumulates in the valley which leads to the growth of these trees, these trees hold the moisture & remains green all through the year!
We then trekked upto Jenukallu gudda which is at the height of 4500 feet, first steeped mountain I have climbed on. Fear of heights to turn back, slippery stones, and grass to hold on which can even come out if you held it harder. Totally worth the entire struggle to be on top to see the view of cone shaped mountains, clouds covering them, sunlight spraying the sprinklers; 2 eyes were just not enough to enjoy this beauty & neither these words are enough to describe them.
Sipping a cup of coffee watching the hills around and the thickest of forest, my lungs were all cleansed with the fresh air that got in. I have said this before in my earlier post on Chikmagalur & will say it again, whenever I come to Western Ghats, I feel there is still lots of hope for nature to remain the way it is and this is what pulls me to come to this place again & again & again.
Deep in a rain forest they say, even deeper into the soul of a forest I would say!
Add this to your list of the place that you need to see before you die, you wouldn’t regret! Trust me.
Some facts about Animals & Insects Sunil shared:
Elephants: Post monsoon elephants go through some hormonal changes which lead to pressure in their brain that gets them disturbed to attack human beings. Mostly seen on male elephants but are common on female as well.
Fireflies: There are many kinds of fire flies which can be distinguished by the pattern of the way they shed the light. Say there were 2 kinds of fire flies with Bigger & Smaller patterns: Bigger one changes themselves to a smaller one and goes near smaller like mating and eats them as prey. Smaller one change themselves to bigger one, goes closer near bigger one & mate. Confused? Read again, Confused again? Keep reading. I had to ask 2 times to understand the process 😉
Cicadas: These insects that make noise in the night, gets all together of more than 100 which almost sounds like somebody is screaming, the noise is so loud they have a membrane in their ear that covers automatically. God’s a little too partial to them, isn’t it 😉
Honey Bee: Since honey bees sting is barbed, when the bee stings a mammal & pulled out it tears its abdomen & causes immediate death.
Water Strider: These unique creatures that walk on water gets attracted to ripples formed on water, when an insect falls and creates a ripple that is when these striders hunt them & eat.
When a Wild Flower spotted another Wild Flower.
*I was hosted by Hulivana; luck was all on my plate!
In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks-John Muir
Having a mind that always wanders, itchy feet which cannot stay in one place; Kozhikode/Calicut was just not enough so I had decided to go to Wayanad after my friend’s engagement. I have been to Wayanad a few years ago and I know there would be still a lot more than I wouldn’t have explored.
When I was researching about Kozhikode/Calicut, Tusharagiri Falls caught my attention as there were 3 waterfalls on the same trek. It was on the same route that we were driving in from Kozhikode/Calicut to Wayanad and I couldn’t say no. As we were driving to falls, I saw these tall trees with a cup-tied at the bottom. I asked my driver and he said those are rubber plantations, it was my first time to see them. Facts of Rubber Plantation in Kerala: The first rubber plantation in India was set up in 1895 in Kerala, Kerala is still the highest producer of natural rubber in India, rubber is made out of the liquid(latex) obtained from these rubber trees. Each of these trees is tied with a cup at the bottom where the latex is stored.
The first waterfall is called Eerattumukku, the Second one is called Mazhavilchattam and the Third one is Thumbithullum Para. Although there was hardly any water in all these 3 falls and was mostly filled by locals, the trek through the forest was a memorable one. Absolute silence among the trees, birds chirping here and there, noise of water sliding through this silence, staircase formed through the roots of the trees; my itchy feet was finally dancing with joy.
The journey from Kozhikode/Calicut to Wayanad was one beautiful road opening up to mountains on both the ends, watching the sunset on the move, sliding the window pane to get some fresh air which I always crave for and now my mind that wanders was finally dancing with joy.
I stayed in Coffea Aroma along with 2 of my friends; the name of this place was a catch as I always thought Wayanad has only tea. 5 Kms drive from the main road in the Jeep brings you to this unique place located amidst coffee plantations. As soon as we entered, we were greeted with the music of water passing around, coffee plantations surrounding us, hills at a distance waving at us, was a soothing experience staying here. As most of the major waterfall is usually filled with locals/tourists, it’s a blessing to have a private waterfall in here.
About 5 Kms from here is the Chembra peak, when I decided to trek here all I heard was it takes about 3-4 hours (2.5 kms one side) to climb up which was even more exciting. It is mandatory to take a guide along while you go here for trekking and for my luck I found a guide who could speak Kannada. Have been to Kerala many times earlier and this is the first time ever to find someone who can speak Kannada so fluently, thanks, Chandan! This is why I like traveling; never know what is in store for you. Every step you take is an adventure, every moment is filled with surprises, and every decision brings you happiness.
Chandan is a BA student who is working as a part-timer guide during his holidays and also a native who lives in a village around Chembra Peak. We were climbing up through the forest having conversations about studies, wild animals, and my blog. Sunlight would prick eyes to slow down and I wouldn’t want to give up reaching the peak, we reached in 50 minutes and Chandan was all happy that he could go home soon.
Standing up in this peak where even sky seems reachable, mountains are just a piece of cake, the breeze was the icing and the naturally formed heart-shaped lake on the hill was the cherry. I sat on a rock watching the hills, opened my book to write and the flow just went by; solitude at its best while nature was in rest.
While the journey to Ella was just so more than beautiful, I was pretty sure this piece of land would be even more beautiful and I was not too surprised. Stayed in a budget hotel and later hiked with another Austrian friend I met for about 7 Kms to Ravana Waterfalls. On the way to the falls, all we could see is valleys and rivers flowing by, green mountains standing up and cheering while we were walking.
Little Adam’s Peak is in Ella and was about 5 Kms walk from where we stayed, the next day morning we went walking up the hill and stopped over a place for a cup of tea and this was the view from there.
Australian friend whom I had met in Kandy joined us too, while we continued to walk through the tea plantations, I still remember an old lady passing by smiles and say Hello! This is one nice thing that I have to mention about people in Sri Lanka, from a young tuk-tuk driver to an old lady who is plucking tea leaves will all have a smile on their face and would not forget to greet you! On my way from Kandy to Ella, I spent most of the journey with a family who was continuously feeding me food all the time 🙂
While we started hiking up, we were mesmerized by the view that we saw everywhere. Clear skies, triangle-shaped hills, lake and waterfalls that was somewhere at a distance. Those clouds moving from one corner to other like they were passing letters from one hill to other. Those few hours I was living in a fairyland.
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Noise of the waves woke me up like an alarm
little I knew waves would be opening its arm!
I came here in search of something
you made me realize I had all in me that I was looking!
You have been knit by green wool
looking at your beauty my eyes were full!
Mist was kissing the trees
trees were dancing with the chill breeze!
You made me experience Mother Nature’s lullaby
fell asleep on your lap like a baby!
Only in dreams have seen a fairyland
you are much more than a dream to see you this grand!
PS: Thanks to a friend for lending his camera to click this beautiful island!
Yours Consciously Sneha 